User Guide

8A-4
Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)
5.1a The main and accessory fuses are
located in a fuse block under the seat
(this is an early model)...
5.1b ... and this is a later model 5.1c Lift the cover for access to the fuse
(early model shown)
brush or knife and emery paper. Reconnect the cables and apply a thin
coat of petroleum jelly to the connections to slow further corrosion.
5 The battery case should be kept clean to prevent current leakage,
which can discharge the battery over a period of time (especially when
it sits unused). Wash the outside of the case with a solution of baking
soda and water. Do not get any baking soda solution in the battery
cells. Rinse the battery thoroughly, then dry it.
6 If acid has been spilled on the frame or battery box, neutralize it
with the baking soda and water solution, dry it thoroughly, then touch
up any damaged paint. Make sure the battery vent tube is directed
away from the frame and is not kinked or pinched.
7 If the motorcycle sits unused for long periods of time, disconnect
the cables from the battery terminals. Refer to Section 4 and charge
the battery approximately once every month.
4 Battery - charging
1 If the machine sits idle for extended periods or if the charging
system malfunctions, the battery can be charged from an external
source.
2 To properly charge the battery, you will need a charger of the
correct rating, a hydrometer, a clean rag and a syringe for adding
distilled water to the battery cells.
3 The maximum charging rate for any battery is 1/10 of the rated
amp/hour capacity. As an example, the maximum charging rate for a
12 amp/hour battery would be 1.2 amps and the maximum charging
rate for a 14 amp/hour battery would be 1.4 amps. If the battery is
charged at a higher rate, it could be damaged.
4 Do not allow the battery to be subjected to a so-called quick
charge (high rate of charge over a short period of time) unless you are
prepared to buy a new battery.
5 When charging the battery, always remove it from the machine
and be sure to check the electrolyte level before hooking up the
charger. Add distilled water to any cells that are low.
6 Loosen the cell caps, hook-up the battery charger leads (red to
positive, black to negative), cover the top of the battery with a clean
rag, then, and only then, plug in the battery charger. Warning:
Remember, the gas escaping from a charging battery is explosive, so
keep open flames and sparks well away from the area. Also, the
electrolyte is extremely corrosive and will damage anything it comes in
contact with.
7 Allow the battery to charge until the specific gravity is as specified
(refer to Chapter 1 for specific gravity checking procedures). The
charger must be unplugged and disconnected from the battery when
making specific gravity checks, if the battery overheats or gases
excessively, the charging rate is too high. Either disconnect the
charger or lower the charging rate to prevent damage to the battery.
8 It's time for a new battery if:
a) One or more of the cells is significantly lower in specific gravity
than the others after a long slow charge.
b) The battery as a whole doesn't seem to want to take a charge.
c) Battery voltage won't increase.
d) The electrolyte doesn't bubble.
e) The plates are white (indicating sulfation) or debris has
accumulated in the bottom of a cell.
f) The plates or insulators are warped or buckled.
9 When the battery is fully charged, unplug the charger first, then
disconnect the leads ffom the battery. Install the cell caps and wipe
any electrolyte off the outside of the battery case.
5 Fuses - check and replacement
Refer to illustrations 5.1a, 5.1b and 5.1c
1 The fuse block is located beneath the top cover (early models) or
the seat (later models) (see illustrations). It contains a 20-amp or 30-
amp main fuse, spare fuses and accessory fuses (see illustration)
Fuse functions and ratings are listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
Fuse ratings are marked on the fuses.
2 If you have a test light, all of the fuses can be checked without
removing them. Turn the ignition key to the On position, connect one
end of the test light to a good ground, then probe each terminal on top
of the fuse. If the fuse is good, there will be voltage available at both
terminals. If the fuse is blown, there will only be voltage present at one
of the terminals.
3 The fuses can also be tested with an ohmmeter or self-powered
test light. Remove the fuse and connect the tester to the ends of the
fuse. If the ohmmeter shows continuity or the test lamp lights, the fuse
is good. If the ohmmeter shows infinite resistance or the test lamp
stays out, the fuse is blown.
4 The fuses can be removed and checked visually. If you can't pull
the fuse out with your fingertips, use a pair of needle-nose pliers. A
blown fuse is easily identified by a break in the element.
5 If a fuse blows, be sure to check the wiring harnesses very
carefully for evidence of a short circuit. Look for bare wires and
chafed, melted or burned insulation. If a fuse is replaced before the
cause is located, the new fuse will blow immediately.
6 Never, under any circumstances, use a higher rated fuse or bridge
the fuse block terminals, as damage to the electrical system could
result.
7 Occasionally a fuse will blow or cause an open circuit for no
obvious reason. Corrosion of the fuse ends and fuse block terminals
may occur and cause poor fuse contact. If this happens, remove the
corrosion with a wire brush or emery paper, then spray the fuse end
and terminals with electrical contact cleaner.