THE WILLIAMSWARN Personal Brewery USER MANUAL INTRODUCTION 2 PART ONE: YOUR PERSONAL BREWERY PART FOUR: APPENDICES APPENDIX one: CLEANING & SANITISING 46 APPENDIX TWO: ADDING INGREDIENTS 48 BREWERY OVERVIEW 4 THE CONTROL PANEL 5 APPENDIX THREE: TAKING S.G.
INTRODUCTION We are very proud to bring you the Generation 2 WilliamsWarn® Personal Brewery. The development of the first model that we launched with in April of 2011 took over 6 years of effort and determination. In the following 12 months after launch, we sold out of the first batch that we had produced. We learnt much from this first model and we had a rapidly growing international demand, so we decided to seek investment to improve the brewery and meet this response.
PART ONE: YOUR PERSONAL BREWERY
BREWERY OVERVIEW The following diagram shows an overview of the main components of your personal brewery. The unit comprises of two main parts: The Brewery Tower and The Brewing Vessel. The components of the tower and the brewing vessel are described in the following diagram. You will need to refer to this diagram whilst you are following the beer making instructions in Part Two. Fig.
THE CONTROL PANEL The control panel is where you control the brewing process from cleaning to dispensing the beer. The components on the control panel are described in the following diagram. You will need to refer to this diagram whilst you are following the beer making instructions in Part Two. Fig. 2 8 9 1 10 2 12 4 3 11 5 6 7 1. 3-WAY VALVE 5. DIGITAL TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER 10. BREWERY FILLING LINE VALVE 2. VESSEL PRESSURE GAUGE 6. ON/OFF BUTTON 11. BREWERY CO2 LINE VALVE 3.
SAFETY INFORMATION These instructions for use outline general safety guidelines for the correct operation of the WilliamsWarn Personal Brewery System Carefully read and understand this user manual before attempting to operate. F. Never use the WilliamsWarn Personal Brewery for any purpose other than the Intended Purpose. Do not misuse, modify or force the appliance in any way as damage may occur that may create potential hazardous risks or situations.
2.0 Warranty WilliamsWarn provides a 1 year warranty on all parts and sundry equipment. Drinking Water AS 2070-1999 Plastic materials food contact use Warranty Disclaimer The WilliamsWarn Personal Brewery is to be used only for human consumption only in accordance with the intended purpose 1.1. Use of the appliance not in accordance with these instructions will void the warranty and could cause potential harm and potentially severe health related issues. 3.0 5.
4. Mains Input voltage 220~240Vac model 100~120Vac model base allow the user to move the brewery on a flat surface in a straight line. Take care when moving the machine in another direction. 5. Mains Frequency 50-60Hz The refrigeration system will emit warm air from the ventilation ducts on the Brewery Tower. Ensure adequate air flow for the ventilation system so that air is not blocked or looped back. 6. Supply Current 0.
Copyright 2013 © WilliamsWarn Brewery All rights Reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, or stored in a retrieval system of any nature without the written permission of WilliamsWarn Brewery Limited.
SETTING UP YOUR PERSONAL BREWERY Please follow the instructions below carefully to set up your Personal Brewery. The Ingredients and their storage You will receive a set of ingredients and this user manual in a separate delivery to the brewery. You must use this set of ingredients for your first brew. An example is shown in Figure 5 (Part 2 of this manual). POSITION THE BREWERY Position your Personal Brewery in a place where it can remain for the duration of the brewing process and beer dispensing period.
cylinder is turned off at the cylinder and the pressure in the tubing on the low pressure side has been released. Fig. 3A For the regulators supplied by WilliamsWarn to release pressure on the low pressure side, wind the regulator knob out anti-clockiwse to its closed position and the low pressure gas will release itself.
3. Take the 4 Litres of 5% glycol mix supplied and carefully pour down the funnel into the tank. See Figure 3I. Fig. 3G 4. Replace the rubber bung and wipe off any spillage. 5. Replace the rear protective panel and turn the latches back into position with a screwdriver to secure. See Figure 3C. INSTALL THE LARGE GAS CYLINDER You need to install a large food grade carbon dioxide gas cylinder inside the Brewery Tower as shown in Figures 4B and 4C. Such bottles can be: A. Bought new from WilliamsWarn B.
3. Check the draft tap is closed and the flow control lever on the side of the tap is pushed all the way up to its closed position. The draft tap should be automatically closed by its spring, which is its central sitting position (Not sitting forward and not sitting back). Fig. 4C 4. Turn the 3-way valve clock-wise to the vessel pressure gauge arrow and once the vessel low pressure gauge reaches 0.25 bar turn the 3-way valve back to the X position.
PART TWO: MAKING YOUR BEVERAGE WITH THE STANDARD BREWING METHOD
BREWING CYCLE OVERVIEW As shown in the overview below, ales (with an alcohol % up to about 6%) will be ready in 7 days, requiring less than 1 hour total work time. Each Stage has its own set of corresponding instructions within this section of the user manual. The bulk of the work occurs at the start of the process when you are working through Stages 1 and 2.
THE BREWing process: WHAT YOU NEED Before you start brewing, it is important that you are fully stocked with the equipment and ingredients you need to make the perfect beverage. To get you started we have provided you with a starter pack of sundry equipment which will assist you in making great products. We have also provided you with a starter pack of ingredients for you to make your first beer with your WilliamsWarn Personal Brewery.
Fig. 6 1 2 3 4 5 WilliamsWarn sundry Equipment 1. brewery detergent 2. Sodium percarbonate 3. 2 Litre plastic jug 4. non-scratch sponge 5. 500ml rinse bottle 6. a large spatula 7. 100ml cylinder 8. hydrometer 9. Clarification agent 10. Thermometer 11.
Fig. 7 1 2 equipment from your kitchen 3 4 5 You will also need a source of cold water and a sink to dump waste into. 1. kitchen kettle 2. can opener 3. tea spoon 4. table spoon 5.
STAGE ONE: CLEAN AND SANITISE THE BREWERY Please ensure you have studied Figures 1 and 2 and are familiar with the names of each component on your brewery. Please read Appendix 1 first, for background information and principles regarding cleaning and sanitising your brewery. PREPARATION 1. Ensure you have the ingredients you need. A standard WilliamsWarn kit is shown in Figure 5 in the section “What you need”.
Then close the vessel valve and dump the contents of the jug down the sink. Fig. 12 CLEAN THE VESSEL WITH WATER 8. Rinse the jug and fill it with 2 Litres of cold water. Close the vessel valve and dump the 2 Litres of water into the vessel cone (Figure 10). Dip the sponge into the water that is in the cone and give a preliminary scrub of all the internal surfaces of the vessel, including under the rim, the yeast ring (from any previous brew), the vessel wall and the cone (see Figure 11). 9.
17. Put the 2 Litre jug under the filling line valve and open the valve and allow 100ml to flow into the jug (see Figure 18) then close the valve. Fig. 16 For those with the WilliamsWarn counter-pressure bottler, if you would like to clean your filling line tube and bottler, for this step you should attach the brewery filling line valve to the Bottler using the filling line tube. Once the line is connected, ensure the Bottler dispense valve is closed and then open the brewery filling line valve.
23. Ensure the vessel valve is closed and then spray the sanitising solution under the rim and evenly down the side walls so that all surfaces are wetted (See Figure 22 again). Try to wet all surface with this 500ml of sanitizer and let all the sanitising agent solution collect into the cone of the vessel (See Figure 24). Fig. 21 If not all surface became wetted, collect the liquid back into the wash bottle (open the vessel valve and dump the liquid into the 2 Litre jug first) and repeat again. 24.
28. Put the 2 Litre jug under the draft tap and open the tap to remove any remaining sanitising solution from that line too. Close the draft tap when CO2 is being emitted. Again, it is critical to be sure the draft tap is closed and holding the pressure and no gas is being emitted, so as to avoid beverage leaking out the draft tap during fermentation. Fig. 25 Keep the sanitizer in the jug, do not dump it down the drain. 29. Then push the draft tap flow control lever all the way up so to close this.
STAGE TWO: ADD THE INGREDIENTS Please read Appendix 2 first, for background information and principles regarding the adding of ingredients and Appendix 6 on how to set the temperature on the digital controller. For ease of understanding we will refer to the liquid produced in this step that the yeast is added to as “wort/must”. Wort is the term used in beer and Must is the term used for cider, mead and wine. For your info, wort is pronounced “wert” not “wart”. BOIL WATER 1. Start to boil 1.5 Litres (3.
Stir the contents of the jug to help dissolve any remaining extract and then add this to the brewery also. Fig. 29 Then using the jug, add the first 2 Litres and then 1 Litre of cold tap water to the brewery (3 Litres Total) to provide more volume to dissolve any dry extracts into. B) For thin extracts: Add the contents directly to the brewery (with the vessel valve closed). Rinse the package with cold water and add that to the brewery.
kettle, then continue to top up with cold water and mix as described in 7A. Fig. 32 SG SAMPLE 8. Once full and if desired, you can take a 100ml sample for a hydrometer reading of the wort/must initial specific gravity (also known as original gravity (OG)). See Appendix 3: Taking S.G. samples & calculating alcohol %’s. For Standard Kits supplied by WilliamsWarn, you do not need to take an initial sample as the beers will be SG 1.045 and the cider 1.038 (when using two cans). Fig. 33 CLOSE THE LID 9.
experiencing a large temperature differential too quickly (see Appendix 2 for more details).This technique also reduces osmotic stress on the yeast. Fig. 36 14. Then open the vessel valve again and let the wort/must gently fill the sediment bottle fully (see Figure 37). Once the bottle is full, leave the vessel valve fully open so the bottle contents mix with the vessel during fermentation. 15. Put the neoprene cover on the sediment bottle to insulate it from ambient temperatures (see Figure 38).
STAGE THREE: MONITOR THE PRESSURE DURING FERMENTATION Please read Appendix 5 first, for background information and principles regarding carbonation and monitoring the pressure. WHAT TO CHECK After approximately 1 day for ales and a bit longer for lagers (depending on temperature), there should be many bubbles rising as seen in the sediment bottle and foam on the wort/ must surface (as seen through lid sight-glass with the light on).
what if there is no pressure build up after 1 day? If the pressure does not build up and the yeast is actively fermenting as seen in the sediment bottle, you likely have a leaky seal in the rim/lid or VPRV. See the Trouble Shooting Section, Problem 2 for a solution. Lager yeast can sometimes take more than 1 day to get active. Fig.
StAGE FOUR: Cool the beverage Please read Appendix 6 regarding how to set the digital controller and Appendix 7 for background information on typical fermentations and principles regarding when to cool the beverage and the effects of cooling the beverage. In general cooling can be put on at Day 4 for ales and Day 6 for lagers and Day 8 our cider. However you should check fermentation is finished before putting on the cooling.
StAGE FIVE: CLARIFY THE BEVERAGE Please read Appendix 8 for background information and principles regarding clarifying the beverage. FIRST CLARIFICATION First clarification can take place 12 hours after cooling has started, so in general, Day 4 ½ for ales and Day 6 ½ for lagers. Our cider kit uses S-04 as the yeast and does not require clarification. It should be ready to be consumed once cold on Day 9 at about 1.008 S.G.
the sediment down the drain and rinse the sediment bottle and stainless bowl both well with water. Fig. 47 5. Then put the bowl back under the tank and take the well rinsed sediment bottle to the draft tap. Put the bottle under the tap and push the draft tap flow control lever all the way down to its fully opened position (see its open position in Figure 46). Then push the draft tap towards the back of the brewery to create foam to come out of the tap (this is the foam mechanism part of the tap).
process in order to be sure it has occurred, so turn off all external noise like any music players, the radio etc. Fig. 51 Open the black 3-way valve to the pot for 10 seconds only, by turning the 3-way valve anti-clockwise from its closed (X) position to be in-line with the arrow pointing to the clarification pot (see Figure 49). Allow the clarification agent to bubble and mix into the vessel for 10 seconds.
SECOND CLARIFICATION A second clarification can take place 24 hours after the first clarifications so in general, Day 5½ for ales and Day 7½ for lagers. Fig. 53 15. Close the vessel valve (to avoid disturbing the settled yeast) and close the 3-way valve (X position). Then perform another clarification as described above from steps 7 – 13 with 20ml of clarifying agent.
StAGE SIX: Dispense the BEVERAGE Please read Appendix 9 for background information and principles regarding dispensing the beverage. Fig. 54 Dispense can take place 24 hours after the second clarifications but for extra clarity we recommend waiting 1 ½ days. So in general, you should be enjoying the beverage at Day 7 for ales and Day 9 for lagers and ciders. Fig. 32 1. The bottle should be ½ to ¾ full of clarified sediment with a clear beverage layer seen at the top of the bottle (See Figure 54). 2.
Please be aware that the beer will warm up a couple of degrees as it pours through the line and beer tap so set the temperature slightly lower than what you want it in the glass. It will take a few hours to warm up the beer in the tank if you increase the set-point now. Fig. 56 7. To pour your first beverage, hold a glass under the draft tap and close the draft tap flow control lever by pulling it up as far as it goes.
SHORT INSTRUCTIONS After some time, these short instructions below are all you will need to help you brew. However, until the process becomes intuitive, the Standard Instructions in the previous section will be necessary. So start with the Standard Instructions and then use this one page when you feel more experienced. For first time users, these short instructions also serve as an overview of the process. Stage 1: Clean and Sanitise the Brewery (approximately 15 minutes) 1. Preparation 2.
HoW To MAKE THE FRESHEST BEER IN THE WoRLD STAGE oNE: CLEAN & SANITIZE THE BREWERy STAGE TWo: ADD THE INGREDIENTS DAy 0: 15 MINUTES CLEAN THE BREWERy SANITIZE THE BREWERy DAy 0: 15 MINUTES REHyDRATE THE DRy yEAST DISSoLVE THE LIQUID MALT EXTRACT AND ADD To THE BREWERy ADD THE DRy MALT EXTRACT ADD oPTIoNAL EXTRAS (HoPS / GRAINS) ToP UP To THE 23L MARK WITH WATER CoNNECT THE yEAST To THE BREWERy.
PART THREE: MAKING BEVERAGES WITH THE ADVANCED METHOD
INTRODUCTION There is much flexibility for brewing many different beverage in your WilliamsWarn. After you have tried some or all of the Standard Ingredient Kits you may like to add a little extra flavour. You can do this quite easily using what we call our Advanced Methods.
adding extra hop flavour and bitterness Hops can add bitterness, flavour and aroma to any brew. All beers needs some bitterness to balance the intrinsic maltiness of beer, but flavour and aroma are optional and dependent on the beer style being produced. Fig. 59 To bitter beer, hops need to be boiled at 100°C (212°F) for a period of time (e.g. 30 minutes to 1 hour). When you make beer from malt extract, this bitterness aspect is taken care of in the Liquid Malt Extract.
Then add a dose of cold water to the coffee press to rinse the hops further, stir the hops again to extract more flavour compounds, plunger again and add another lot of green water to the WilliamsWarn. around 10 for American and Asian lagers to 70 BU’s for IPA’s and Stouts. Guidelines are given by the BJCP at this link http://www.bjcp.org/stylecenter.php If you want to increase hop bitterness levels for your own personal preference, you can use several web-based tools.
ADDING EXTRA MALT FLAVOURS Background Along with hops, there are certain types of grains that can also be steeped in hot water, with the resulting strained water being added to the brew to add certain characteristics. crushed into at least 5 parts to optimise extraction. Suppliers can crush grain for you or you can set up your own small mill or a similar system. 6.
Fig. 61 Roasted Malts Cont. Crystal/Caramel Malt 80°L Crystal/Caramel Malt 120°L Special B 120-150°L Meussdoerffer Rost 200°L Base Malts that must be mashed include: Lager/Pilsner malt 2°L, Pale Ale malt 3°L, Wheat malt 3°L, Rye malt 3°L. Some Kilned Malts that are kilned hotter than Base Malts and generally also need mashing but have been used in recipes as steeped malt include: Vienna malt 4°L, Munich malt 10°L, Aromatic malt 20°L, Amber malts e.g.
PART FOUR: APPENDICES
APPENDIX one: CLEANING & SANITISING Background The best breweries in the world ensure total cleanliness. As every brewer knows, brewery fermentations are essentially the controlled growing of a single strain of yeast. Unfortunately the conditions for the brewery yeast are also perfect for unwanted bacterial (and other microbes) growth, which can spoil the beverage. This is why cleaning and sanitising are so important. If you have a hot water system close to a temperature of 60°C/140°F this will work well.
The Sponge Use a non-scratch sponge to prevent scratching the stainless steel. The sponge provided is non-scratch. If you use a sponge that scratches the stainless steel, the scratches can be a hiding place for undesirable microbes that don’t get in contact with the sanitising agent which then increases the risk of infection. vessel and then add 0.3 bar/5psi of pressure to the vessel and push 250ml of this water out the draft tap and filling line.
APPENDIX TWO: ADDING INGREDIENTS Important Principles For ingredient addition, the principles we are adhering to are as follows: If your local cold water temperature is lower than 12°C (54°F) or above 30°C (86°F) you will need to add some adjustments as follows: A. The water you use should be drinking water quality. Follow the principle “If you can drink it you can brew with it”.
Your own techniqueS You may find your own techniques that are easier for you than our method. You are the brewer and the owner of the brewery, so you may find methods that suit you better. As long as you meet the above general principles, you may add ingredients in any manner. The table below shows the alcohol content for 5 different final SG readings.
APPENDIX THREE: TAKING S.G. SAMPLEs AND CALCULATING ALCOHOL %'s In order to calculate the alcohol content of a brew, you need to take two samples: the hydrometer. Let the hydrometer come to a stop and then measure the SG. An example is shown in Figure 62. 1. The Specific Gravity (SG) of the initial wort/must on Day 0 when it is made. This measurement is also known as the Original Gravity (OG). You may need to blow off any bubbles so you can read the hydrometer better.
of typical fermentation rates, as measured by the drop in SG, are shown is Appendix 7. ABV = (Initial SG - Final SG) x 131 So in this example: The yeast is consuming the sugars, amino acids, vitamins and minerals and excreting alcohol and CO2 from its cells into the wort/must. The SG reduces each day because these compounds, which are denser than pure water, are being reduced in quantity. Most of the resulting CO2 is emitted out the VPRV (we keep about 10%) and the alcohol stays in the beer.
acceptable as long as it isn’t more than 20% of the total ingredients in terms of extract added (liquid malt extract is 80% extract, dry malt extract is about 98% extract and sugar is 100%). Too much sugar makes for a bad flavour for beers. NOTE: German brewmasters will never add sugar as an ingredient in beer due to the famous German Beer Purity Law from 1516 known as the Reinheitsgebot. So only add DME if you’re making a German style beer and want to increase the alcohol.
APPENDIX FOUR: THe LID SEAL SEAL POSITION It is critical that the tank seal is sitting properly in the groove of the tank rim. It is important that this seal is sitting in the groove along the entire circumference, as shown in Figure 63. Fig. 63 The seal circumference is designed to be slightly smaller than the groove circumference, in order to give a better seal when closed.
APPENDIX FIVE: The VPRV AND CARBONATION Background For the average 5% alcohol beverage, the yeast produces during fermentation about 10 times the carbon dioxide we need in the final beer. So we only need to keep about 10% (and let the rest escape) and the beverage is fully carbonated. These are guidelines only and you may prefer to produce a highly carbonated English Ale if that is your personal preference.
Chart 1 CO2 Levels from Pressure vs Temperature Temp °C / °F 13 / 55.4 12 / 53.6 11 / 51.8 10 / 50 9 / 48.2 8 / 46.4 Tank Pressure (BAR) 7 / 44.6 6 / 42.8 5 / 41 4 / 39.2 3 / 37.4 2 / 35.6 1 / 33.8 CO2 Level g/L Step 5: Set the VPRV 0.25 bar higher than the gas cylinder setting and brew at this pressure (see below for more details on setting the VPRV).
increase the pressure back to close to 1.25 bar. You will do that again after a 1 day waiting period. In either case the principle is the same in that a pressure differential of 0.25 -0.5 bar is required between the vessel (at the lower pressure) and the gas cylinder (at the higher pressure) in order to force the clarification agent in when the 3-way valve is turned to the clarification pot.
APPENDIX SIX: SETTING THE TEMPERATURE WITH THE DIGITAL CONTROLLER The WilliamsWarn uses an Omron digital controller to control the temperature. It is programmed in celsius for countries that use that scale and fahrenheit for countries that use that scale. Fig. 66 The temperature control system works in the following way: The controller controls the temperature of the glycol in the glycol tank. A small pump constantly pumps the glycol around the cone of the vessel.
APPENDIX SEVEN: TYPICAL FERMENTATION CHARTS & WHEN TO COOL THE BEVERAGE Typical Fermentation Charts Fermentation is a process by which yeast cells consume nutrients and grow under anaerobic conditions and excrete carbon dioxide, ethanol, flavours and other bi-products from their cells.
WB-06 wheat beer yeast will ferment down to about 1.010 and produce a 4.75% alcohol by volume beer when starting at 1.0454. Chart 2 AATypical Fermentationwith with Typical 1.045 1.
Lager yeast ferment slower than ales and at a lower temperature, so the start to a lager fermentation takes longer. After 1 day, the pressure will start to build and a pressure of 1.5 bar should be reached before Day 2. Cooling and Beverage Clarity To a certain extent, the cooling helps some of the remaining yeast in the beverage to settle down into the sediment bottle, but the yeast mostly flocculates when it has finished consuming the sugars that it can consume.
APPENDIX EIGHT: CLARIFYING THE BEVERAGE Clarifying the beverage is important if you want to make a beverage that looks like most commercial mainstream and craft beers, ciders and meads. Some beverages styles are supposed to be cloudy (e.g. some wheat beers, some ciders) and it also a matter of personal preference whether you clear the beverage or not. carbon dioxide gas from the gas cylinder and purge the air out. We prefer to add beverage foam from the draft tap.
Straining the clarification agent The WilliamsWarn clarification agent can form crystals in the bottle over time. It is important to strain it as it is poured into the clarification pot. This will ensure no crystals pass through the one-way valve under the clarification pot. The crystals can stop the one-way valve from closing and cause beer to flow back up into the pot. successfully cleared beers, you may like to try the method described below for experienced brewers.
The Method for Low Carbonated Beers When you brew beers at a very low carbonation level, another technique is required. This is because the pressure is so low, we cannot release gas from the vessel via the VPRV lower than atmospheric pressure (0 bar) and so the first two methods described above cannot work. For example, if you’re making an English Ale at 5°C and want a carbon dioxide content of 3 g/l, you only need 0.12 bar pressure in the vessel, which is very low. So you cannot release 0.25-0.
APPENDIX NINE: DISPENSING THE BEVERAGE The Draft Tap The draft tap opens by pulling the handle towards you. There is a flow control lever on the side which when pushed fully up is closed and when pushed fully down is 100% open. If the flow control lever is closed (pushed up) when you open the draft tap there will be no flow. If you then slowly press the flow control lever down, you will see the beverage pour.
Remove the beer tap handle as shown in Figure D. Then remove the control stem as shown in Figure H. Fig. D Fig. H Undo the cap at the base of the stem and remove the stem as shown in Figure E. You should then have all the parts separated as shown in Figure I. Fig. E Fig. I Unwind the nut on the flow control lever anti-clockwise and remove the flow controller as shown in Figure F.
APPENDIX ten: Descriptions of our standard Kits & The BJCP style guidelines THE WILLIAMSWARN standard KITS As of the writing of this manual WilliamsWarn has 15 Standard Kits of differing beer styles. See Figure 68. Fig. 68 Each of these cans is designed to be used with a 1.36kg/3lbs foil bag of WilliamsWarn Dry Malt Extract (DME), as shown in Figure 69, except for the Cider which is designed to be used with a second can of Cider as shown in Figure 70.
each beer style and the thinking behind each yeast type used. The cider is S-04 ale yeast from Fermentis. several guidelines published but we have used The BJCP Style Guidelines as a basis for our beer styles in our Standard Kits. We recommend you download the full PDF of these guidelines so that you become familiar with the list of agreed beer styles and the specification for these. This PDF can be found at http:// www.bjcp.org/stylecenter.php.
All our WilliamsWarn Standard Kits have been developed to match styles as closely as possible to these guidelines. We have especially focused on matching colour and bitterness. A summary of WilliamsWarn Kits colour vs bitterness is shown on Chart 1 below.
DESCRIPTIONS OF OUR Standard KITS Gravity of about 1.010 (2.5°P), resulting in 4.0-5.1% alcohol by volume, 30 Bitterness Units and 6.5 SRM/13 EBC colour. American Amber Ale A bitter beer with full-bodied, speciality malt character. Ferment at 23°C/73°F. To elevate the fresh hop aroma of this style, we recommend the brewer make a hop tea of 1-2 oz. (28-56g) of any American hops in a French coffee press. Add approx. 900ml of hot boiled water to the hops, stir and then steep for 20 minutes.
Dutch Pilsner This product is designed to be used with 1.0-1.5 kg (2.23.3lbs) of WilliamsWarn Light Dry Malt Extract and water to make 23 Litres (6 US Gallons/5 Imp. Gallons) of wort. Original Gravity of 1.040-1.048 (10°P- 12°P), fermented to a Final Gravity of about 1.009 (2.3°P), resulting in 4.1-5.2% alcohol by volume, 37 Bitterness Units and 6 SRM/12 EBC colour. This is a noble brew with a crisp finish. Our Dutch Pilsner is straw-coloured in appearance with a moderate, lingering bitterness.
Irish Red Ale An easy drinking pint. Wheat Beer A refreshing, smooth-drinking Wheat Beer. Our Irish Red Ale has a deep-amber, light-copper appearance from crystal and black malts included in the recipe. The malt focus gives this beer caramel, toffee and toasty notes and a slight dry, roasted-grain finish. The hops provide a moderate level of bitterness. Overall, this is an interesting beer that is a pleasure to produce and appreciate. Our Wheat Beer has a straw-coloured appearance with a low bitterness.
APPENDIX eleven: Conversion Tables Temperature celsius (°C) Fahrenheit (°F) celsius (°C) Fahrenheit (°F) celsius (°C) Fahrenheit (°F) 1 33.8 35 95.0 69 156.2 2 35.6 36 96.8 70 158.0 3 37.4 37 98.6 71 159.8 4 39.2 38 100.4 72 161.6 5 41.0 39 102.2 73 163.4 6 42.8 40 104.0 74 165.2 7 44.6 41 105.8 75 167.0 8 46.4 42 107.6 76 168.8 9 48.2 43 109.4 77 170.6 10 50.0 44 111.2 78 172.4 11 51.8 45 113.0 79 174.2 12 53.6 46 114.8 80 176.
Volume Weight Litre (L) US Fluid ounce (fl. oz.) US Pint (pt) US gallons Kilogram (kg) Ounce (oz) Pound (lb) 0.25 8.45 0.53 0.07 0.25 8.80 0.55 0.50 16.90 1.06 0.13 0.50 17.60 1.10 0.75 25.36 1.58 0.20 0.75 26.50 1.65 1.00 33.81 2.11 0.26 1.00 35.30 2.20 1.25 42.27 2.64 0.33 1.25 44.10 2.76 1.50 50.72 3.17 0.40 1.50 52.90 3.31 1.75 59.17 3.70 0.46 1.75 61.70 3.86 2.00 67.63 4.23 0.53 2.00 70.50 4.41 2.50 84.54 5.28 0.66 2.50 88.20 5.
brew record sheet Beverage Style / Name Brew Number Start Date and Time ingredients Malt Extract Water Yeast Hops Grains Sugar Other wort/must production notes fermentation data Date & Time DAY S.G. Temp °C Press.
brew record sheet 80 2.00 70 1.75 60 1.50 50 1.25 40 1.00 30 0.75 20 0.50 10 0.25 0 0.
APPENDIX twelve: taste testing It is important to record a taste test score for each brew so that in the future you can refer to your records and see which beers are working best for you. Fig. 71 The best tasting system is blind taste testing, in which a series of beverages are presented and the taster has no knowledge of what the samples are. Then, in quiet conditions with absolutely no talking allowed, the taster/s smell and taste the samples and score them.
Blind Taste Test Sheet Taste the beers in front of you and give them each an overall hedonic score from 1 to 10, as described in the box to the right. score guide 10 exceptional 9 very good 8 good 7 satisfactory (no off flavors or faults, bland is OK) 6 not quite satisfactory (1 fault) Beers you love and could drink all night or love the taste of are 8-10. 5 Poor (2 faults) Beers with a few faults should score 5 or 6.
TROUBLE SHOOTING THE WILLIAMSWARN PERSONAL BREWERY
STAGE ONe: CLEANING To speed up this test, you can manually add CO2 from your gas cylinder and pressurise the tank to 1 bar. Firstly, wind the VPRV down to its fully closed position (clockwise). Then open the 3-way valve. Close the 3-way valve when the tank is at 1 bar and watch for a pressure drop. If the seal is in place properly and the lid is closed, the pressure should hold. Once the seal is confirmed, you can leave the pressure in the vessel, but re-set the VPRV to your chosen set-point e.g.
STAGE five: clarification 2. Ensure you have the tap flow controller fully closed (pushed up) before you pull the tap handle and then slowly open it to start with a slow pour. The first pour of the day can be foamy due to the line being warmer than the vessel and the carbon dioxide coming out of solution in the line. Problem 1: I can’t mix the clarification agent into the beverage Solution: 3. Ensure the draft tap is pulled out fully when pouring.
