Installation Manual

5
4.5 OPERATING TIPS
1. Energy consumption will vary depending on ambient temperature and building
insulation. For lower energy consumption, use a 7-day Programmable Thermostat
control.
2. Energy consumption can be minimized by turning the system OFF when heating
is not required, but extra time will be required for the oor to warm up once the
system is turned ON again.
3. Avoid placing objects like thick mats, rugs, oor level furniture and mattresses
on the heated oor, especially in the area where the oor temperature sensor is
located. These restrict the transfer of heat away from the Cables and result in the
oor area beneath them being warmer than other areas.
4. Avoid Mats with rubber or vinyl type backing as these may decompose with heat
and could stain ooring.
4.6 INSTALLATION UNDER CONCRETE
1. Ensure that the concrete contractor has installed a solid base of 4” to 8” (102 mm
to 203mm) of crushed rock aggregate base and that it is tamped down and ready
for the concrete pour.
2 . It is extremely important that the concrete installer does NOT use any heavy
equipment, machinery, or vehicles over the exposed Heating Cable. During
concrete pours, it is recommended that care be taken to avoid stepping on the
factory splice portion of cable, where the hot section (blue) meets the cold section
(black). This is the location of the factory splice. During this process of installing
the heating product and pouring concrete, it is the responsibility of the electrician
to use a 500 VDC megohmmeter and a multi-meter to keep checking on the
Heating Cables that are currently being worked on top of, to ensure they have not
been damaged, and will be ready for action once the concrete slab has cured.
* Do NOT use 500 VDC megger while personal are still in contact with the wet cement.
3. For installations in basements and warehouses that will include building posts,
it is strongly recommended that the concrete installer pre-sleeve for the posts
to avoid any and all drilling of the concrete. The Heating Cable must be routed
around these sleeves or posts to avoid any direct contact with them. Heating
Cables or Mats must not be allowed to pass thru expansion joint locations. It
is recommended that lines are spray painted on the nished concrete surface
by the electrician to mark o exactly where expansion joints may be located.
It is the responsibility of the electrician and the concrete installer to coordinate
their eorts so they avoid saw-cutting or drilling thru Heating Cables that are no
longer visible beneath the concrete. Following the proposed installation plan from
WarmlyYours will help to ensure this process goes smoothly.
4a. For Two-Pour Installations: The concrete installer pours the rst 2” to 3” (51mm
to 76mm) of concrete. While this rst pour is still wet, rebar or wire-mesh should
be placed on top of the rst pour. The cables should be attached to the rebar
/ mesh with plastic zip ties, using 3” to 5” (76mm to 127mm) spacing for free-
form type cable. At this time, the electrician must route the cold lead(s) thru rigid
metal conduit(s) to get back to an accessible junction box(es). Care must be
taken by the electrician so that none of the heated section nor the factory splice
enters any conduit. This is the best time for sensor placement. Separate conduit
should be used to protect the low voltage sensor wire and must NOT be shared
with any high voltage cold lead from the Heating Cables / Mats. Once conduits
& sensor(s) are placed, the topping pour of concrete can be nished. Again,
the concrete installer(s) must take care not to walk on the hot-cold splice point,
and to avoid damaging the Heating Cables with shovels and rakes. Taping up
the shovel blades helps make them less sharp. It’s recommended that Mats be
placed so the mesh faces up, keeping the wire-side-down to help protect it from
the shovels.
4b. For Single-Pour Installations: The wire mesh or rebar is rst placed by the concrete
installer or electrician. The electrician then must attach the Heating Cable to the
rebar / mesh with plastic zip ties using 3” to 5” (51mm to 127mm) spacing for
free-form type cable. Then the rebar / mesh must be propped up with concrete
rubble, wire chairs, or brick pavers to the appropriate depth so that Heating
Cable / Mat ends up 2” to 3” (51mm to 76mm) from nished surface and no
deeper. Once rebar / mesh / Heating Cable is all propped up, the electrician must
route the cold leads(s) thru rigid metal conduit(s) to get back to an accessible
junction box (es). Care must be taken so that none of heated section or factory
splice enters any conduit. If a slab-mounted sensor will be used, this is the
best time for placement. It should be located in an open area, between 2 runs
of cable. Separate conduit should be used to protect the low voltage sensor
wire and must NOT be shared with any high voltage cold lead from the Heating
Cables / Mats. Once conduits & sensor(s) are placed, the pour of the concrete
can be nished in one step. The concrete installer(s) must take care not to walk
on the hot-cold splice and to avoid damaging the Heating Cables with shovels
and rakes. Mats should be placed mesh facing up, keeping the wire-side-down,
to help protect it from the shovels and rakes.
5. The electrician needs to complete nal testing of all the Heating Cables / Mats
with a multi-meter and a megohmmeter to verify and record that each Heating
Cable has survived the pour of concrete and is ready for action once the concrete
is cured. (7 day minimum)