Instructions / Assembly
Staining:
1. Put on gloves and prepare your materials.
2. Stir stain thoroughly using smooth strokes, avoid creating bubbles
and do not shake the stain container.
3. Working in the specified order and individual section, dip the foam
brush into the stain then use the rim of the container to release any
excess. Use the foam brush to apply the stain onto the section. Using a
cloth, rub the stain into the embossed wood-grain ensuring complete
and even coverage. Stop between sections to tidy up the perimeter with
a rag and mineral spirits. Clean edges will help define the individual
components of the door.
If preferred, the subtle color variation found in wood can be replicated
by selective removal of the stain. Using a rag or cheese cloth, gently rub
the surface removing very small amounts of stain. Apply varying levels
of pressure and work in the direction of the grain. Excessive pressure
will remove too much stain.
4. Once the door has been completely stained, check for any drips.
While the stain is still wet, lightly brush the entire surface of the door
with a china bristle brush. Use long strokes and work in the direction
of the grain to even out color and achieve consistency.
5. Let the first stained surface dry, per the stain manufacturer’s
recommended drying time, before proceeding to the second side.
6. If you prefer a darker appearance, repeat staining steps one through
five only after first coat is completely dry. Do not sand between
staining coats.
D. Sealing or applying the top-coat
The top-coat or sealant for your door is very important and required
for weatherability. It protects the stained door from the elements and
makes the door surface washable. Be sure that the stain coating is
completely dry and then apply a high-quality, UV stabilized, clear
exterior polyurethane coating (satin or low gloss) – used for any
normal exterior wood application.
Note: We recommend that all 6 sides (front and back faces plus all four
edges) be sealed to eliminate moisture absorption. The bottom of your
door panel(s) may contain a factory installed weatherstripping (sweep)
which is sealed prior to installation. Failure to observe this
recommendation may void the warranty.
1. Stir top coat thoroughly using smooth strokes, avoid creating bubbles
and do not shake the top coat container.
Figure 26: Screws fasten the latch plate to the door slab.
Install the dead
bolt strike plate at
the correct loca-
tion, per the manu-
facturer installation
detail (Figures 26
and 27).
Figures 29 and 30: Caulk the sill crown and the front of the sill.
Caulk all four exterior corners and all around the brick or siding
in the following sequence:
• caulk the sill on both latch and hinge sides from the edge of the
sill crown along the edge where the sill and jamb or brickmould
meet (Figure 29)
• caulk the front sill edge where the sill and the sub-floor meet
(Figure 30)
• caulk the top corners where the header and jambs meet, starting
at the weatherstripping and working to the face of the brick
mould (Figure 31)
• caulk the perimeter where the exterior trim meets the brick or
siding trim (Figure 32)
If the door is center-hinged or has a sidelite, caulk around the mullions
where the mullions contact the sill and header.
Figure 33: Raise or lower the sill by adjusting the sill screws. Some sills may
have covers over the adjusting screws. These covers must be removed prior to
making any adjustments.
Some door units are supplied
with adjustable sills, and these
may be raised or lowered to
form a tight seal with the fixed
sweep on the bottom of the
door. This adjustment requires
a screwdriver with appropri-
ate screw bit. To increase the
height of the sill cap, turn
screws evenly along the rail.
Refer to the “Steps to test
threshold seal”. (Figure 33).
Figures 31 and 32: Caulk the jambs and the exterior trim.
Figure 27: Screws should connect the dead bolt plate to the stud.
Score shims with a utility knife and snap
the shims along the score. Trim any excess
with the utility knife. Insulate around the
top and sides of the door unit in the cavity
between the jamb and the wall studs with
fiberglass blanket insulation
(Figure 28). Install the interior and/or
exterior trim around the door.
Figure 28: Insulate between the jambs and the wall studs all around the door.
Critical Point: The use of expandable type foam is not
recommended as it may cause the door jambs to warp; this
may leave the door inoperable or push the brickmould away
from the jamb.
Figure 35: The latch and dead bolt are installed per the hardware manufacturer
installation detail.
1. Close door on a piece of
paper placed over the
threshold.
2. Pull paper between the sweep
of the door and the threshold.
3. If the threshold is properly
adjusted, you should feel
some tension, but if the paper
tears, the door’s seal is too
tight. If there is no tension on
the paper, the door’s seal is too loose.
To properly adjust the threshold seal if it is too tight.
1. Adjust rail by turning screws evenly a 1/2 turn.
2. Repeat seal test. If paper does not slide beneath door with a
feeling of tension, repeat Step. Re-test seal.
3. Continue testing threshold until it is properly adjusted.
To properly adjust the threshold seal if it is too loose.
(WARNING: Do not increase height by more then
1
⁄
4
”)
1. Adjust rail by turning screws evenly a 1/2 turn.
2. Repeat seal test. If paper does not slide beneath door with a feeling
of tension, repeat Step. Re-test seal.
3. Continue testing threshold until it is properly adjusted.
A. How to start
Doors can be stained either hanging in the opening or removed from the
frame (recommended). Should you remove the door, take care to protect
it from damage. Sidelites will need to be finished vertically. To remove
the door from the frame, use a center punch and hammer. Strike the
hinge pin from the bottom until it pops up (for outswing units - hinge
leaf must be removed from the door). Drive the hinge pin as far as
possible with the punch. Using a pair of pliers, grasp the hinge pin and,
while twisting, pull the pin out. Remove all door hardware.
B. Preparing the door surface
IMPORTANT: Dust, debris and other surface contaminants can
accumulate on the surface of the door. Therefore, to achieve best results
and maximum coating adhesion, wipe/clean all surfaces of the door
panel(s) and sidelite(s) thoroughly with acetone or mineral spirits.
Mask (tape) off all surfaces that will not be stained.
C. Staining the Door
Use a high quality, heavily pigmented, oil-based stain (recommended).
Gel stains can also be used. Before starting, and occasionally throughout
the project, stir the stain until the texture is creamy. We recommend that
before starting, you try staining a small inconspicuous area of the door
to achieve the desired color.
One coat of stain is required with the recommended (per manufacturer’s
instructions) dry time needed between sides. The stain should be applied
in the following order working on one small section of the door at a time.
Finishing Order:
#1 Panels and sticking (moulding profiles)
#2 Vertical center areas (mullions)
#3 Horizontal areas (rails)
#4 Outside vertical areas (stiles)
#5 Edge of door (includes both sides
and top of door)
Factory finished door units do not require additonal field finishing. See
maintenance steps for proper care.
Requirements:
Find a well-lit staining location that is dust-free, well ventilated and
within the climate conditions recommended by the stain/top-coat
manufacturer.
You will need the following:
Coatings and accessories:
• Mineral spirits or acetone
• One pair of rubber gloves
• Lint-free rags or cheese cloth (recommended)
• Stir sticks
• 2” wide foam brush
• Masking tape
• Safety razor blades
• Stain
–
High-quality, opaque (non-transparent), heavily pigmented,
oil-based stain (recommended)
–
Gel stains can also be used
–
Semi-transparent stains are not recommended
• High-quality, exterior grade, UV stabilized polyurethane sealant
(satin or low gloss)
• 2-1/2” wide china bristle brush
Tools:
• Hammer
• Center punch
• Screwdriver with arrangement of screw bits
• Pliers
• Safety glasses
Please read and understand the entire staining procedure before
attempting to finish the door. Be sure to follow the (stain and top-coat)
manufacturers detailed application instructions on the product label.
2. Do not overload the brush. Dip the end of the brush into the coating
and gently slide the flat side of the brush against the edge of the
container to remove the excess.
3.
Apply with even gentle strokes. Press hard enough to flex the bristles
just a little and then pull the brush gently along the door’s surface.
4. As you apply the sealant, pull the brush quickly along the area two or
three times lightly to even out the brush strokes.
5. Allow the first coat to dry completely (follow manufacturer’s
recommendations) and apply at least one more coat using the same
steps as above. A minimum of two coats is required for complete
protection and the door should be resealed annually to ensure
lasting protection of the finish.
6. After both sides of the door have been top-coated (twice) and are
completely dry, remove the paper and tape from the glass and
protected surfaces.
7. Clean the glass with window cleaner and remove any finishing
materials from the glass with a safety razor.
8. Replace door back into frame.
Maintenance
1. In the event that the door is scratched after finishing, the damaged
area can be lightly sanded using 400-grit sandpaper (do not over-sand
the surface). Follow the staining and top-coat procedures.
2. Dirt and watermarks can build up on the surface of your finished
door over time. Extend the life of the stain and top-coat by cleaning
the door several times a year. Clean with warm soapy water, rinse and
towel dry.
3. A minimum of two coats of top-coat are initially required for
complete protection. The door system should be resealed every
1 to 7 years depending upon weather exposure.
Factory finished door units do not require any additonal field finishing.
Requirements:
Find a well-lit finishing location that is dust-free, well ventilated and
within the climate conditions recommended by the coating manufacturer.
Recommended temperature should be between 50˚ - 90˚F degrees
fahrenheit.
You will need the following:
Coatings and accessories:
• Mineral spirits or acetone
• Soapy water (mild detergent in warm water)
• One pair of rubber gloves
• Stir sticks
• Masking tape
• Safety razor blades
• 220-grit sandpaper
• Paint
– High-quality, oil-base or 100% acrylic water-based latex paint of
desired color
– Laquer paints are not recommended
• 2-1/2” wide brush appropriate for type of paint (A natural bristle
brush should be used with oil-based paint and a synthetic bristle brush
should be used with latex paint.)
Tools:
• Hammer
• Center punch
• Phillips screwdriver
• Pliers
• Safety glasses
• Air-less sprayer (optional)
Note: Painting instructions specifically refer to the door and sidelite
panels. Oil-based paint should not be used on wood frame components
(jambs & brickmould).
Please read and understand the entire painting procedures before
attempting to finish the door. Be sure to follow the paint manufactur-
er’s detailed application instructions on the product label.
A. How to start
Doors can be painted either hanging in the opening or removed from the
frame (recommended). Should you remove the door, take care to protect it
from damage. Sidelites will need to be finished vertically. To remove the
door from the frame, use a center punch and hammer. Strike the hinge pin
from the bottom until it pops up (for outswing & self closing units – hinge
leaf must be removed from the door). Drive the hinge pin as far as possible
with the punch. Using a pair of pliers, grasp the hinge pin and, while
twisting, pull the pin out. Remove all door hardware.
B. Preparing the door surface
IMPORTANT: For adequate paint adhesion the door surface must be
free of dust, debris and other surface contaminants.
Finishing Order:
For wood-grain textured door
finishing with brush.
#1 Panels and sticking
(moulding profiles)
#2 Vertical center areas
(mullions)
#3 Horizontal areas (rails)
#4 Outside vertical areas
(stiles)
#5 Edges of door
(includes both sides
and top of door)
Finishing with Spray Applicator:
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for thinning the paint; (i.e. thin
latex paint with water or oil-based with solvent for better atomization
and spraying results). Strain paint before filling the spray pot.
The door can be painted in horizontal (recommended) or vertical
position; however, the paint should be applied in continuous strokes
extending six inches past the edges of the door. This will ensure
uniformity across the entire surface of the door. Multiple light coats
are better than one heavy coat.
Avoid runs as a result of overspraying.
Note: We recommend that all 6 sides (front and back faces plus all
four edges) be sealed to eliminate moisture absorption. The bottom of
your door panel(s) may contain a factory installed weatherstripping
(sweep) which is sealed prior to installation. Failure to observe this
recommendation may void the warranty.
Drying:
IMPORTANT: Let the paint dry completely, following the manufac-
turer’s recommended drying time before handling the painted surface
or applying a second coat. If possible, allow the door to dry in a hori-
zontal position to minimize paint runs. High humidity and/or low tem-
peratures may extend your drying time.
Warning: Foam-filled doors painted with dark colors or with attached
storm doors, may become very hot to the touch in direct sunlight.
Do not paint the weather strip and do not close door until paint is dry
(see paint manufacturer’s specifications on minimum drying time).
To maintain product warranty: Paint the door, frame, header and
brickmould within 45 days of installation.
Maintenance:
1. In the event that the door is scratched after finishing, the damaged
area can be lightly sanded using 400-grit sandpaper (do not over-sand
the surface). Follow the finishing procedures on the inside of this bro-
chure.
2. Dirt and watermarks can build up on the surface of your finished
door over time. Extend the life of the paint by cleaning the door a few
times a year. Clean with warm soapy water, rinse and towel dry.
3. Repainting every 1 to 7 years will be required, depending upon
weather exposure.
Warranties are available for most products. Please check with your
dealer or distributor for current warranty terms and conditions.
Figure 34: U-channel sweeps are adjust-
ed to form a tight seal with the sill.
Some door units are supplied with
a U-channel adjustable sweep and
these may be raised or lowered to
form a tight seal with the fixed sill.
To adjust the sweep, loosen the
screws that hold the sweep in place
and lower the sweep far enough to
create an airtight seal with the sill.
Once the sweep is positioned prop-
erly, tighten the screws by hand,
taking care not to over-tighten (Figure 34).
If it becomes apparent that there is some trouble with the operation of
the unit, the first thing to check is the installation of the unit into the
rough opening. Check to insure that
1
⁄
8
” gap across the top edge of door
panel and frame holds true for the entire width of the door
opening AND that weatherstripping is evenly compressed the entire
height of the door opening. Secondly, check that the two jambs are
correctly aligned with each other and that incorrect nailing on shims
have not twisted the jambs.
Check all Critical Points to confirm that unit was installed correctly in
proper rough opening.
MIC-11506 Rev. B 12-01-11
Note: Units intended for installation in high velocity windstorm region requires
specific grade of latching hardware.
Steel doors should be wiped clean with a solvent such as acetone or
mineral spirits. Allow the cleaning solvent to dry completely – until
there is no residual odor. Once wiped clean, the door must be lightly
sanded with a 220-grit sandpaper. After sanding, the door must be
washed with a mild detergent in warm soapy water, rinsed and then
dried.
Fiberglass doors should be wiped clean with a solvent such as acetone or
mineral spirits. Allow the cleaning solvent to dry completely – until there
is no residual odor. Next, the door must be washed with a mild deter-
gent in warm soapy water, rinsed and then dried.
Mask (tape) off all surfaces that will not be painted including all glass.
C. Painting the Door
Use exterior, high quality, oil-based or 100% acrylic water-based
latex paint of desired color. High quality interior paint can be used
on the interior surface of the door only. Laquer paints are not recom-
mended. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for paint application
by using either a brush or a handheld sprayer.
Painting:
Put on gloves, safety glasses, and prepare your materials. Before
starting, and occasionally throughout the project, stir the paint using
smooth strokes until the texture is creamy – avoid creating bubbles.
Finishing with Brush Application:
Dip the brush into the paint, then use the rim of the container to
release any excess paint. Apply paint as evenly as possible while still
wet. Brush strokes should follow the grain direction of the selected area.
Start working on the panels and sticking (moulding profiles), then the
vertical center mullion, next the horizontal rails, then the vertical stiles,
and finally, the outside edges (stiles and top rail, see figure 1 for details).
Doors that are outswing or have adjustable surface mounted sweeps will
need to have the sweep removed and the bottom rail painted.
www.masonite.com
1. At the ends of the
sill, apply a bead of
caulk where the cap
and jamb/mullion
meet.
2. Apply the corner pad
with the thick side
towards the weather-
strip and the thin side
even with the edge of
the jamb/mullion. Be
sure the pad is seated
in the caulk.
Patio/Double Doors
At the astragal, apply
the pad with the thin
side flush with the
edge of the astragal and
the bottom of the pad
against the sill cap.
Proper installation of the corner seals (Foam Pads) is critical to the
performance of your new door system. Please use these photos along with
Step #12 to make sure the corner seals are properly installed.