OWNER'S MANUAL : SEWING MODEL MACHINE 385.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. Dear Customer: You have just invested in a very please pause for a moment and care for your Specific the Advice on the zigzag sewing machine. read this booklet Before which using your contains new Kenmore instructions on how machine, to operate machine.
TABLE SECTION KNOW I. YOUR PREPARE 2, YOUR MACHINE FOR Setting Adiust Thread 2 2_3 4 SEWING Set Up the Machine ......................... o Plut in the machine and Switch on the Power o Foot Control Use ....................... o Set the Pressure Dial ..................... o o - 5_9 ......... Spool Pins .................... the Presser Foot Lever .................. Cutter ............................ Table Change the Presser Foot .................... o Presser Foot Types .....................
: ::locate: anaiiaentify: A fuN-line nearest of Sears sewing retail cabinets store or is available through our ttle Parts:: i at your general catalog. Another your option Kenmore • , _ buy a Carrying goes anywhere, can Case . _ , then be stored Thread Spool Pins any- where. Bobbin Upper Take-up Thread Spindle Width Control Stitch Length Control Reverse Stitch Lever Top Thread Control Face Cover Thread Winding Guide Tension Piate Cutter Needie Plate \ J \\ \ \
Arm Cover Carrying Plate \ \ \ Handle / i !/ Presser Hand Wheel Push*Pull Foot ,. Clutch Stitch Selector Stretch Stitch /_ Adiuster Snap-on .t .JSll Free Arm L_ght and Power Sw_tch Plug Connector .j Foot _-, -.
Bobbin Darning plate Buttonhole Large screw opener driver Needle Small set screw Lint drwer Spool \ J Zipper foot Stra3ght stitch foot --% Sliding buttonhole /" toot / brush pin teft
Set Up the Machine Plug in the Machine and Switch Power supply o on the Power Foot Control Use plug Power swlIch \ Fool c/ontro! Sewmg ligh! Power swltch % J 4. PIug connector Before the plug be the power sure into your sw_tch is OFF I, Check Volt 2, 3. your outlet to be sureitis and power and sewing switch to turn light. The a 110to !20 Your FEATUR E: machine wil! lighttpower switch interrupted or light/power switch children.
SetUp the MaChine:i:I(Continued) = f Set the Pressure Dial Groove Pressure control dial Setting mark J The pressure control Set the dial aligning dial is located the setting 3 ..... most 2 ..... applique 1 ..... basting, sewing Also for velours NOTE: The the it. inside marl{ the face cover plate. on the dial with the groove as follows.
o Setting Spool Pins o f Adjust the Presser Foot = Thread Cutter Lever Spool pln felt-_._O Spool pin Normal up _-- pos_llon l Tuh[rteeard ( Hi l,\i positron "'- Presser toot lever The spool spools pins of thread are used in order for holding to feed thread the You to the machine. To use, pull spool storage. felt up on the the spool pros. pros. Push Place the down for The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presse r foot.
= Accessory Storage Box o Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table Your sewing machine can do free arm This feature makes sewing easy for: To remove: To Remove the Extension (for free-arm 1. The lid of the open toward accessory storage box lifts you, Grip sewing. TabLe sewing) the table with your index finger and thumb, as shown. 2_ Pull gently toward you, J Sewing accessories are conveniently located The extension table will snap out.
J * Stitchingsleeves, wmstbands, pant_egs, oranycirculargarment area. Darning socks or mending or areas of wear in children's knees, e_bows, clothes. * Sawing etc.
__o : c:,:.::_::_:-i _:/ :::: ::=,,--:-:::::!_,:_:;:_>: ¸, .::_:-: :_ _ :_: :_:. ;i::iKnow What the Presser Feet Will Do o Check Your Presser Foot o The Presser feet are an important what each foot does in order Your presser foot snaps on the foot tf you feature to use them of this machine, is held in place by a Foot holder, need to remove which or attach is seldom the foot To Remove: You need to know effectively.
• Presser Foot Types Strmght f Zigzag Foot A: Use this foot for both Zigzag toot straight and H: zigzag Zigzag stitching Bar tacking Button sewing Rick-rack Place the presser foot zontal pin on the under the groove so the horifoot of lies the iust foot holder, 2. Lower the presser foot lock the presser foot holder to in place.
i!ii¸ililiiii!i!i!il !iiiii !!iiiiiiiiiiiiii ¸,¸iilill ii!ilili! i! _/:KnowWilatthe Preset Feet Will: Do (Continued) o Presser Foot Types (Continued) Sliding ButtonhoJe Foot Zipper Foot Satin Stitch Foot (- Sliding buttonhole toot _ E: Zipper foot F: stitch foot J Use this foot for buttonholes of built in system, It is marked to measure your buttonholes accurately. This foot Uses: Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 40). can be set to sew on each side of your zipper.
_,_----dfm===_ ,M--, _t Your choice In your of needle and thread needle case, you will depends find ...... on the fabric the following Blue {11) .......... for stretch Orange for lightweight {11) Red {14) Purple .......... (16) for ......... ..........
o Fabric, Needle, Thread FABRIC Lightwmght: Batiste0 Dimttyo Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace. Organza, Crepe, Taffeta° Voile, Organdy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percate, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Kmts.
Prepare the Bobbin o !. To Remove Gently the Bobbin push it towards 2. Set aside. 3. Lift down from on the o the Machine bobbin cover plate Wind the Bobbin and slide Bobbin you. out the bobbin, winding spindle Clutch as shown. 1. Put your spool of thread onto spool pin, with the thread winding in the direction sh own. 2. Pull the wtnding clutch from the machine to stop the needle from moving while you the bobbin. 3o Draw thread 4.
= f Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder _ F ® ........................ 1, Put holder J the bobbin so that counter-cfockwJse into the the thread (left). bobbin feeds "x ® ® 2. F Pu_l about toward slot _. you 4 inches through of the thread tension 3. Then pull the thread clockwise toward the back of the machine through the slot 4. Slide the it down bobbin. Atlow thread plate.
Prepare Your Top Thread Thread Your Needle f k., Raise take-up lever to its highest Raise presser foot Place spool The numbered steps above follow the numbers position by turning hand wheel toward j you. tever. on spool pln as shown, 1. Draw thread into thread 2. While holding check spring holder. 3_ Firmly draw thread 4. Draw 5. Thread then 6.
:ii::iPr_p_ _ou_::TOp Th:readii_(cOntinued ): = Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread f ,j ,, 1. Rinse needle and presser thread rotate foot loosely turn. J Hold in left hand handwheel you one complete 18 _ever. toward J 2. Bring top bobbin th read, thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving to 6 inches of thread clear.
Adjust the Top Thread Tens=on Choose the Correct Top side ol The best tension labrlc Setting mark Tensmn: will depend on; the stiffness and thtckness the number of fabric of the fabric layers the type of stitch ll_read The lop thread _s too t_ght The top thread _s too loose_ Tighlen " _w- Top s_de Top stde ol fabric For Straight The Stitch _deal straight fabric, If you as shown look gaps, that When ot stitch at the each stttch adjusting will have threads above, magn
:_Stitch Selector For Zigzag Stitch In the correct of fabric below zigzag and the top for the correct stitch, the threads bobbin will appearance. show threads will siightly To match not show on the top side on the bottom this appearance, adjust side. your See top tensi on. Top tension Top tension Too Tight Too Loose Just Right iiiiii!!i!i! Top stde of Fabric Top side of Fabric Top side of Fabric Red indicator .........
Stitch Width Control V Stitch ....Adjusting Length Control V Length Widtl_ Stretch SIIlch ,,) .........J The width stitch of the stitch The higher stitch. width control regulates the you select. the number, Stretch Stitch Balance the wider the The stitch length length of stitch, stitches setting. The higher control regulates the and also has a stretch the number, the longer the 4- < tn stretch V adjuster h may 0 means no feed.
_: Starting To Sewii: Now that Reverse you are familiar with the controls on your you are ready to start to sew with each time you stt down to sew: your 1. be straight, Inspect the needle, for the fabric fabrics 2. It should and thread being used. made of synthetic Before inches plamng to the the new blends materral rear of the on the properly set and sharp the needles machine, see that on to machine.
PracticalStitchChart Stitch Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach. Stra=ght STRAIGHT 1 I I I J Check Chart I I 1 t Thread Tension RICK*RACK STRETCH Refer Uses Orange Zone 0 Regular etc. Check Chart on p. 14 2 _ 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Posit}on o Use on knits and other for topstitching. Check Chart on p.
Stitch Selection Stitch OVERCAST STRETCH Foot and Other Attach, Zigzag % THREE-STEP ZIGZAG Zigzag % < SMOCKING STITCH Zigzag 4 i d SHELL STITCH p % Sat_n % SERGING Zigzag Needle Check Chart 24 2_6 on p. 14 Check Chart 2_6 Stitch Stitch I .... Length Width i uses 3_5 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 0.5_ tterer to t_age Use for swlmwear0 ski pants and other garments that require stretch. 1 37 36 I Use for fimshing seams. on p.L4 Check Chart on p.
Stitch Stitch Selection Foot end Other BOX STITCHING Zigzag (_ ELASTIC STR ETC H % FAGOTING Zigzag STRETCH PATCHING (\ (q <> <> <> TWO-POINT SHELL ST| TCH IN G L> r_> C> Check Chart 3 _ 8 Stitch Length Orange Zone Stitch Width Uses 3_5 Use tot ovedappmg seams. Check Chart on p. 1_4 3 _ 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Pos_tton 3_5 Check Chart 3 ~ 8 0.5 ~ 2 5 Use for apptymg elastic. 45 Check Chart on p.
: iP'ractic_i:_s_itc_Cha_i:: Stitch iContinued): Stitch Selection HERRING BONE STRETCH Foot i; and OtherAttach, Zigzag Needle Check Chart Thread Tension Stitch Length Stitch Width 2-6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 3_5 Use as hemming stitch cloth end draperms, 2~6 Blue Zone 3~5 Buttonholes: on p. 14 Uses Refer to Page for blankets, table- 46 /\ BUTTONHOLE Check Chart also corded buttonholes. 40 ~ 41 on p, 1_4 D SATIN 26 STITCH Satin Check Chart on p. 14 3_8 0.
Straight Stitches o Straight f = Use the Seam Guides Stitch Sat the Machine Stitch / w=dth control 0 I Stitch Before sewing with foot, always set control to the straight the 0 to stitch stitch avoid breaking Raise the presser foot, 2. Rmse the 3. Place to the stitct! foot results foot, wilt acceptable but also results.
'_;_:i':i_:_ii_!::!:!:i:i_;;:;:ii_::;:!i_i:i:!_:_!, :!:i iiii:i:_,_;_:_/i_::: :,i:x _!_!_!' = Use the Darning ::!W • Plate Topstltchi ng Set the Machine Darning pfate \ Stitch wsdth control 0 Stitch tength control Orange top thread tension controt 2 to 6 Here's How zone J Sometimes when The Darning you Plate covers To Put on the Darning NOTE. The sew, right want to contro] the feed dogs so that the fabric yourself. they do not touch the fabric. 1. 2.
StraightStretch Darning Set the Machine S_t the Machine Stitch Stitch width control 0 w_dth control 0 ] 2 /234 3 4 Top thread tansloR control 2 to6 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control any number (not necessary to adjust) Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position 2 Here's 1. 2 How Put the darning plate on the needle plate (see page 2__88). No presser toot 2. (see Stretch Stitch 3.
Basic Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch wtdth control 't Top thread tension control 3 to 8 i to 5 234 Stitch length control orange Zone Here°s How 2 There are many Consutt Satin the specific Stitch Applique Stretch Stitch Monogramming Embroidery ..............
SatinStitch Set the Machine Zigzag width : Stitch width contro! 2 to 5 @ i Top thread tension control 3 to 8 2 3 . Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 C!ose to 0 Stretch Stitch F: Satin stitch toot Pressure dial: The Stitch ....... 4_' : TF I or and Its Uses The Satin stitch used decorat=ve is a versatile and often stitch, be used to overcast ample, ......
Bar Tacking Set the Machine Stitch width Stitch w_dth control 2 to 5 @ _ Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch control Top thread tenston control 2 t.o 6 length 0.5 to t 2 Baste {or joiner) applique Stitch sure Stretch F_ Satin foot Stitch sewing down Pressure dial: 2 into and or left, :i : =::;; _ron-on fabric on the fabric. satin stitch making points of pockets and straps applique falls along the lower the needle the fabric.
Embroidery Monogramming Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width Stitcll width control 5 i 2 34 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0,5 to "i Here's 1. 2. Stitch length controt Any number {not necessary to adjust) 2 How Here's How 1. Set the same as satin stitch, Back the fabric with Put the plate paper or darning plate on the needle (see page 28). 2. Remove foot 3, Adjust the holder (see page 10). 4 mterfacing.
o Sew a Button Set the Machine Stitch width control Must be adiu sted _ 2 3 4 Top thread tenston control 2 to 6 Stitch length control Any number {not necessary to adiust ) ,_, Use the darning t. plate for button Match foot. the center Adjust the stitch sewmg of the button To (see page 28). holes to the center of the slot on the presser 4 21 Stretch Stitch 3. Lower Turn the foot the hand width to hold wheel button. A: 34 Zigzag toot Darning pta 4. Stitch several times.
Overcasting 0 Stitch Rick-Rack f Stretch Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 5 2 3 - Stitch wrdth control 3 to 5 @ I234 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control zone orange k,, ¸ Helpful Start raw right up Stretch Stitch Hints about of your 1/8" seam.
o Three-Step Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 "1234 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0.5 to 'l Seam Fimshtng Place so that the right Stretch A: Stitch Zigzag foot _ ....... J The Stitch and Its Uses The three-step zigzag is a combination ztgzag and straight stitch. You may use the three-step would has flatter zigzag everywhere use the more basic strength, than a regular The three-step ly useful zigzag elasticity, mending -- sewing is zigzag.
o f Overcast Stretch o Stitching Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 Stitch width controI 3 to 5 -23 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Top thread tenslon control 3 to 6 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch pos_tlon 2 Place the LEFT Stitch Stitch A; ................................... The Stitch J and Its Uses The seam one operation, It you are sw_mwear, and other stretch.
Set the Machine Stitch w_dth contro! 2 to 3 _ 2 1/4" 3 4 L_ght Weight Fabric Top thread tension contro_ 2 to 6 Stitch length control orange zone Heavy Weight Fabric 2 Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag foot 1/4" 1, Finish the raw edge of your 2. Measure, turn NOTE. For light 3. the Fotd up your wmght material hem any way you desire. (see overcasting page 3.5). hem and pin.
Set the Machine Stitch width control _ Top thread tension control 2 to 6 2 2 to 3 3 4 Stitch length control 'l I ::_: :::;============================ _i_:!_:_!i!ii_i!ii_!iiil;!iiii_i_i_!_'_!i i_iill ilii:il _ili_!iiiii!!ii!_iiii!ii_!_'!'_ _ i:i!ili! Stretch Lace A: Zigzag toot ,J Stitch to adds blouses a fanciful, and feminine lingerie.
Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 i! 141 i llfl I III i g7 _ !!i i ii iiiiiiiiiiiill Stitch length control Blue zone F:_ 2 I3 1. a. Caretulfy length on your b, Change Top thread tension 0 L_'_i4 mark the buttonhole garment, to the sliding c. Stretch Stitch Sliding buttonhole Insert foot loot the so that slider buttonhole foot. control 2 to 6 2_ a. Move the ing running garment the under buttonhole toward top mark w_th the e.
4, a,Setthestitchselector at . b.Sew4 to6 stMtches, c. Stopsewing attherightstitch. F! 5. a, Setthestitchselector at I_1 b, Sewuntilyoureach thebackof thebuttonhole. c. Stopsewing attherightstitch. t_ 6. a, Set the stitch selector at 1,1 7_ Remove hole b, Sew 4 to 6 stttches. opener c. Stop sewing at the left stitch. the open fabric with in your the and cut the buttonhole accessory storage box.
Fabric Preparation: Set the Machine Put the top sides of the fabric and sew opening. to the Use the end of reverse Stitch width control 0 together the zipper to lock 2 /Zipper 3 _eeth Zipper the tape stitches. Sew length at "3". the zipper at "4" opening and top with stitch thread tension Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 2 2 To Sew: Reset stitch length at 2 and top thread tension at 2 to 6. Fold back the left seam allowance asshown.
offabric ::::: i':: 8. Openthez_pper. 10.Closethe zipperand turn the 11.Removethe zipper foot and attachthepresser barto theleft fabrictopsideup, 9. Lowerthepresser tootandstitch pins on the zipper foot, therestoftheseam. 12. Stitch tom I3. across and below the bot- continue to of the zipper, Turn the corner guide the teeth, as shown. Stitch through zipper foot 14.
_i:ii:: TwO-Point Shell Stitching Set the Machine Stitch width Top thread tension control 4 to 9 Stitch length control orange ,zone J Here's I. How For best effect: set the desire. stitch you may Stitch allow fabric 2. The Stitch and Its Uses The Shell blind rows of tucks. Shell Stitch hem shell stitching stitching can be by sewing fabric. a Several are called used shell to finish to create hems, sleeve and neck openings. Shell tucking scalloped lingerie.
N:TNEi:sTI Stretch Patching Smocking Sgt the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 i Top thread tension control 2 to 6 2 Stitch width control Ii 5 3, I Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch ¢- -. Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch pOSition positton 2 The Stitch For and Its Uses patching worn out elbows or knees.
:::Eagoting Stitch !,:: Herring Set the Machine Bone Stretch: Set the Machine Stitch width Stitch width control 5 i Top thread tension control 3 to 8 2 3_ Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0,5 to 2 posl Here's How !, Fold under Here's How edge 5/8" Piace Stretch Stitch Pin the tear-away 3. Sew so the toot two edges backing slowly, needle I/8" guiding catches edge on each side. to paper or apart.
EtasticStretchStitch Box Stitching Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch Stitch width control 3 to 5 width 1 control Top thread tension control 3 to 6 2 3_ 3 to 5 Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length controt yellow stretch stitch postflOl] Stitch length control orange Use this stitch to iota heavy weight interlining. Stretch Stretch Overlap two use this stitch raw edges to join together and them.
PROBLEM PROBABLE Incorrect Irregular Breaking Bunching Puckering 48 Stitches Needle of Thread CAUSE CORRECTION skze needle. Improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hote of needle plate, Pulling fabric. Incorrect s_ze needle. Choose correct size needle Rethread machine. tor thread Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide _t gently. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin.
PROBLEM Skipping Breaking PROBABLE Fabric Machine Loosen Improper bobbin threading. Lint m bobbin holder or hook Thread plate. race, Knocking No_se Thread caught Lint tn bobbin _n hook race. holder or hook thread Replace needle plate, Check bobbin Clean bobbin race. and fabnc. tension. or polish threading, holder and hook Remove darning plate. Adjust Stitch Length Control. Place both threads back under to stitch. Push in the clutch. Darning plate m place. Stitch Length set at 0.
::::Clean the:Bobbin: Holder i:: ;< ::: To :::: ': i::::: insure essential that or knock ! Unplug i i the machine •: : your parts The bobbin :: : machine operates at its best, you need to keep the clean at all times. area can attract loudly if a thread dust and tint. Your machine can become sluggish is caught. I and open the face cover. CAUTI 0 N! The light bulb HOT. fingers handle 2.
:OR ,YOU R: MACHINE;:: Oiling the Machine Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs f Open face cover two drops Remove 1, Unplug the machine the presser foot 2_ Remove 3. Remove the remove bobbin cover 5. Take out bobbin and needle, the screw of the needle and the holder bobbin. Lift and remove plate and oil POints as shown below at least once a year, One or of oil is sufficient. excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabrics. up the it, plate.
PARTS LIST 1 2 3 4 7 8 9 lO 14 15 / / 52 5 6 12 16
All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears Roebuck and Co. store Ref, No. or service center. WHEN ORDERING INFORMATION: 1. 2. 3. 4. REPAIR PARTS, handling. to GIVE THE FOLLOWING PART NUMBER PART DESCRIPTION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked transmitted ALWAYS a Sears Repair locally, Parts your Distribution order will Center Part No. 1 *20-6868 2 102403202 Spool 3 813404013 No. 11 Stretch fabric needles 6551 No.
INDEX A H Accessory storage box ............... Appliqueing .................... 2, 8 23, 32 Hand wheel .................... Herring bone stretch .............. Hook race ..................... 3, 18 26, 46 51 B Bar tacking .................... Base ............................. Basic zigzag ..................... Blind hemming ............... Bobbin ............. 4, 15_16, Bobbin holder .............. Bobbin thread ................... Bobbin winding .................. Bobbin winding spindle ...........
WARRANTY () (_ FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY For 25 years from in the mechanical the ON SEWING date of purchase, components MACHINE Sears will, of the sewing _ HEAD free of charge, machine repair defects in material or workmanship which appear head. # FULL _) For TWO YEAR two years appear m the speed control.
SEWING MACHINE Now that or service, you have purchased simply contact your your Kenmore nearest Sewing Sears Service Machine, Center. should a need ever exist for repair Be sure to provide all pertinent facts parts when you call or visit, :l'he model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location.
