EAGLE 2 ARF Instructions Congratulations on choosing the Eagle 2 ARF! This aircraft has been carefully engineered to provide you with all the terrific flight characteristics of the Goldberg Eagle 2 kit, a plane that has helped thousands of R/C pilots earn their wings. Your Eagle 2 ARF's sure-footed ground handling, superb stability, and super-slow landings will help make your early attempts at R/C flying successful. But first, take the time to read carefully through this booklet.
ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE THIS AIRCRAFT TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED FOR ASSEMBLY. 1 RADIO GUIDANCE SYSTEM (4 CHANNEL MINIMUM REQUIRED) 1 ENGINE .40-.45 2-CYCLE, AND MUFFLER (a 4-cycle engine is NOT recommended) 1 CA ACCELERATOR 1 2 OZ. BOTTLE CA GLUE 1 1/2 OZ.
GLOSSARY of common modeling terms ARC: Almost Ready to Cover ARF: Almost Ready to Fly AILERON: the control surface on the wing that rolls (or banks) the plane AIRFOIL: the shape of the wing as seen from the end ANGLE OF ATTACK: the angle at which the wing meets the air flow BEVEL: to sand to an angle shape BURR: the rough edges on a piece of wood or metal after it is cut CAP STRIP: a thin strip glued to the edges of the ribs to shape the wing CONTROL HORN: a device attached to each control surface to provid
INTRODUCTION USING THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL Before you begin assembling your Eagle 2 ARF, take some time to read through this entire instruction book. It is designed to take you stepby-step through the process and to give you added information on engine and radio selection and set-up, balancing your aircraft, and flying your model. The time you spend will speed the assembly process and help you avoid problems.
ENGINE & PROPELLER Your plane flies well using any 2-cycle engine size from .35 to .45. (We do not recommend a 4-cycle engine for this aircraft, due to the more complicated set-up required.) The numbers .35 to .45 refer to the amount of space the piston moves through inside the cylinder of the engine. This space is called displacement; larger displacement generally means more power.
Wing Assembly NOTE: If the covering on your aircraft has wrinkled in transit, refer to the "Covering" section earlier in this book. 1. Collect the following wing parts, as shown above: (1) Right wing (1) Left wing (3) Wing joiners (1) Aileron servo plate (2) Aileron servo plate supports 2. Although the control surfaces of the Eagle ARF have been glued in at the factory, apply a drop of Instant (thin) CA glue at each hinge location, for added security. Allow the glue to wick into the hinge slot. 4.
. Using masking tape, tape the wing halves together at the trailing edge and close to the leading edge together, as shown. This will help keep the wing from twisting. 2. Place the servo tray over the servo opening in the center of the wing, as shown. Trace the outline of the servo tray. 9. Next, place additional tape at several locations across the center seam of the wing, so that the halves stay firmly together while the epoxy is setting.
5. Gather one servo, four rubber grommets, and four eyelets from your JR radio box. If using another brand of radio, use the parts called for in the radio instructions. 8. Place the servo into the servo-mounting tray and enlarge the opening, if needed. Mark the location of the mounting screws. Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill the holes for the screws which have been supplied with your radio. Then mount the servo into the servo tray, as shown. 6.
. Thread the mini-snap links onto the two 7" threaded wires until the wire shows in the middle of the snap link. 16. For ease of installation, remove the servo arm, as shown, and take two snap nuts from the snap nut tree. 17. Insert the pushrod through the bottom of the servo arm and then push (snap) the snap nut on top, to hold the pushrod is held in place. (Pliers may be helpful.) 11. Thread the horn brackets on the aileron torque rods.
TAIL ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION MOUNTING THE STABILIZER 1. Collect the required parts. (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (2) Fuselage Wing Stabilizer/Elevator assembly Fin Large control horn with nut plate attached 2-56 x ½ "screws NOTE: Prior to assembly, the stab assembly has no top or bottom. Use either side to begin. 5. control horn. Cut off the nut plate attached to the large 2.
9. Holding the screws in place, turn the elevator over and place the back plate (cut from the control horn) over the screws. Tighten the screws, a little at a time, until the wood just starts to dent. Set the stab aside for now. 12. Mount the wing on the fuse, using #64 rubber bands. Measure carefully, as shown above, from the fuselage sides out to the wing tips ("A" arrows) to be sure the wing is centered.
INSTALLING THE FIN 16. When satisfied with the fit, draw match-up lines on both the stab and the fuse to show the correct location of the stab on the fuselage. 1. Collect the following parts: (1) (1) (2) Fin/rudder assembly Small control horn #2-56 x ½" screws 2. Remove the wing. Add a drop of thin CA to the fin/rudder hinges, as you have done with the aileron and elevator hinges. When dry, CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE HINGES ARE SECURELY GLUED by pulling gently, but firmly, on the rudder.
5. Place the control horn on the rudder, as shown above, and mark the hole locations on the rudder, just as was done on the elevator. Then drill 3/32" holes and mount the control horn, screwing through the rudder to the nut plate. 8. Remount the fin back on the fuselage and put a 90° triangle against the fin to make sure it is mounted perpendicular to the stab. 9. When satisfied with the fit, mix up a couple of spoonfuls of epoxy. 10.
INSTALLING FUSELAGE COMPONENTS SPINNER ASSEMBLY Repeat This Sequence CAUTION: The spinner, propeller, and engine, if improperly installed, or if misused, may result in serious injury to you or to others. Follow the spinner assembly instructions, and other instructions and warnings elsewhere in this book, carefully. General Precautions: · Never use a spinner where the cut-out is too small for the propeller you are using. · Follow the engine and prop mounting instructions.
7. Close the spinner by positioning the spinner with the retaining pin at the top and squeezing the backplate onto the nose cone. Rotate the next pin to the top and repeat, until all four pins are secure. 2. With the "R" facing up and on the right side of the aircraft, as shown, place the motor mount in the fuselage. but do not glue at this time. Position your engine on top of the motor mount. NOTE: The motor mount cutout will accept most standard size motors.
9. After the epoxy dries, permanently install four blind nuts in the bottom of the engine mount, using socket head screws and washers to pull the blind nuts up into the screw holes, as shown. After tightening the blind nuts, remove the screws. NOSEGEAR BLOCK INSTALLATION 5. Remove the engine from the motor mount and the motor mount from the fuse. At the marked hole locations, drill four 1/8" holes through the motor mount. HINT: Place scrap ply under the motor mount to avoid splintering when drilling. 6.
3. Turn the fuse right side up and place the 4-40 blind nuts on the ends of the screws, with the teeth pointed toward the firewall. 4. Place the servos in the tray and install with screws, as shown. Make sure the servo arms and wheels on your servos look approximately like the ones in the photo. If necessary, change the arms and wheels to match. SERVO INSTALLATION 1.
HATCH INSTALLATION THROTTLE PUSHROD INSTALLATION 1. Hatch Hold - Down “Straight Action” End 1. #2 x 3/16 Sheet Metal Screw (1) (1) (1) Collect the follow parts: (1) (3) (1) Collect the following parts: 2. fuselage. Hatch hold-down #2 x 3/16" sheet metal screw Hatch cover 2. Position the hatch cover on the fuse. Press hold-down against the front of the firewall and up against the bottom of the hatch cover, as shown. The "straight action" end should point towards the fuse bottom.
Nylon Tube protrudes 1/8” Out Firewall Simulating Servo Action Nylon Guide Tube Throttle Rear Limit (usually Idle Position) Front Limit (usually Full Power 5. Referring to the drawing, and starting at the firewall, slide the threaded rod into the nylon tube. Connect the mini-snap link to the engine throttle arm. 6. Again referring to the drawing, move the pushrod back and forth to simulate servo action. If the pushrod does not move freely, adjust the wire bend where necessary.
3. Make a ¼" bend at one end of the 16-3/4" wire. Then, referring to the photo, bend the wire at approximately a 20° angle about 1" back from the first bend. 15. Cut the excess throttle pushrod wire sticking out beyond the pushrod connector. Leave about a ½" of wire, to allow for adjustments. Gather the necessary items: 4. With the fuselage bottom-side up, insert the unbent end of the wire into the hole on the opposite side from the throttle pushrod and nearest the bottom of the fuselage.
7. Install the steering arm in the bearing. Slide the nosegear strut though both the steering arm and the nosegear bearing. With the fuse bottom-side up, tighten the socket head screw with the Allen wrench. 8. Put the nosegear strut into the nosegear block, pushing it down until the spring is approximately ½" off the bottom of the fuselage. Make sure the nosegear steering arm is approximately ½" away from the firewall and that the nosegear strut is positioned as shown in the photo. 12.
CAUTION! The white neprene stopper and the fuel tubing provided with this kit are FOR GLOW FUEL ONLY; DO NOT USE THESE PARTS FOR GASOLINE. 2. Insert both brass tubes through the wide end of the rubber stopper. Leave 1/2” extending out the front 6. of the tank. Place the small nylon washer on both tubes, as shown, making sure that one of the tubes extends 7. 1” past the washer. This tube will be for the klunk pickup. Cut tube as necessary. Again place the stopper assembly into the fuel tank.
2. From the ½ X 8 X 12", cut a strip 2-1/2" x 12" long. Next, cut a 2" wide strip across the bottom of the leftover piece. 5. Place the fuel tank down inside the hole on top of the "Z" folded foam. Fold the 2" foam piece in half and push it down on top of the fuel tank. 3. Remove the hatch and put the 2-1/2" wide foam in the bottom of the fuel tank compartment in the fuselage. 6. Insert both fuel line ends through the holes on each side of the firewall, forming a loop around the engine.
RADIO SWITCH INSTALLATION The switch holder shown is not included in the kit. You can purchase the switch holder at your local hobby shop. For installation without the switch holder, cut a hole through the side of the fuselage to mount the switch. 4. Locate the hole on the left side (as you look out the windshield) of the fuselage and make an "X" cut in the covering. Push the switch mount bolt through the hole. 1.
PUSHROD INSTALLATION 1. Collect the pieces: (1) LONG wooden pushrod dowels with wires attached (1) SHORT wooden pushrod dowels with wires attached (2) 10" threaded rod (2) Black shrink tubing, not shown (2) Mini snap link (1) Full-scale pushrod drawing 5. When satisfied with the bend, mark the next bend location and make the bend accordingly. 2. Thread the snap link onto one of the threaded rods. The end of the rod should show in the middle of the snap link. 6. shown.
8. Cut off the wire to the length in the SIDE VIEW drawing. 9. Referring to the above photo, insert the bent wire end into the hole and slot in the SHORT wooden pushrod and CA glue in place. 12. Remove the mini snap link and, inserting the pushrod assembly through the windshield opening, thread it down into the tail section. Twist the rod so that it exits through the hole in the top of the fuselage. 10. Slide the black shrink tubing over the wire and wooden rod assembly and shrink with a hair dryer.
19. As with the rudder pushrod assembly, insert the bent wire end into the hole and slot in the remaining (LONG) wooden pushrod. CA glue the wire in place and slide the black shrink tubing over the pushrod assembly. Shrink with a hair dryer and, when the tubing is tight, glue the edges of the shrink tubing using thin CA glue. 16. Looking down at the top of the fin, make sure the rudder is in a straight line with the fin. Adjust if necessary by twisting the snap link in and out.
22. Check the stab and elevator to make sure they are in a straight line. If necessary, adjust the elevator up or down by screwing the snap link in or out. Replace the center screw into the servo. RECEIVER & BATTERY INSTALLATION 1. (1) (1) (1) (1) (2) (1) Collect the following required items : Radio receiver Aileron extension WIRE Receiver battery Remaining piece of foam rubber Rubbers bands T-pin 9. Tuck the battery and the receiver all the way into the foam wrapping.
2. Tack glue the figure by applying a few drops of CA glue at key joint areas. When dry, remove tape and apply a small amount of glue all along the seam. PAINT PILOT AS DESIRED 3. Insert the front of the pilot platform into the notches in the front cabin former with the back resting on the wood rail. 3. Using artist's acrylics or modeling enamels, which are available in many colors without needing to mixing required, paint the pilot to suit your fancy.
INSTALLING THE WINDSHIELD & SIDE WINDOW CAUTION: Follow these instructions carefully to avoid cutting errors or other damage to the plastic. Outer cut line 6. Carefully remove the side windows from the plastic sheet, again making sure to follow the cut lines provided. Cut front and back windows apart for ease of installation. 7. Test fit the windows. When satisfied with the fit, tack glue in place and then glue around the entire edge, as described above.
RADIO, ENGINE & AIRCRAFT SET-UP The transmitter is the part of the radio that the pilot holds. It usually consists of two sticks that can be moved in 360° circles, along with slide tabs that help center each movement of the stick for each servo. The following diagrams illustrate how the radio stick movements control the servos and the movements of the control surfaces on the aircraft.
7. When you are satisfied with the responses, replace the center screw back into the throttle servo. RUDDER SERVO 2. Remount the servo wheel onto the servo, making sure the wheel placement allows the pushrod to be centered on the servo, just as it was earlier, when the pushrod was mounted. The same Tx stick that regulates the throttle, when the stick is moved up and down, also moves the rudder and the nosegear steering, when the stick is moved to the right or to the left.
ENGINE SET-UP DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FLY YOUR MODEL UNTIL THE ENGINE RUNS DEPENDABLY. It should idle without stopping, and the transition through all engine speeds should be smooth. WARNING: The turning propeller can cause serious injury, such as deep cuts. Avoid wearing loose clothing (such as baggie shirts or neckties) or jewelry which could be caught by or could fall into the spinning propeller. Children and spectators should be kept away from a running engine. No one should stand in line with the propeller.
FLYING YOUR AIRPLANE WHAT TO TAKE TO THE FIELD Flight batteries, fresh or fully charged Radio transmitter Fresh 1 ½ volt starting battery & glo- plug clip Fuel bulb or pump Tools for tightening any parts that can vibrate and loosen Paper toweling for clean up Extra #64 rubber bands Extra props and an extra spinner Prop wrench 36 WHERE TO FLY Fly only in areas sanctioned for R/C and known to be free of radio interference.
Check also to see that your nose wheel turns to the right when you give right rudder. Your throttle should open to permit full power when the stick or tab is moved forward or up. Finally, make sure that everything on your aircraft is neatly and firmly in place-motor fastened down, servos snugged down, receiver and battery wrapped in foam rubber, tank properly supported, etc. Prop and spinner must be tight. The receiver antenna must be extended, not coiled up inside the model.
FIRST FLIGHT There is no way to fully explain the principals of flight and the techniques of flying in a few pages. Entire books have been written about apparently simple subjects, such as the shape of the wing. Furthermore, there is no substitute for an experienced R/C flight instructor. The following information is not intended to replace your instructor, but to help give you understanding of basic flight concepts and techniques.
DANGER: SPIRALS, STALLS, OVERSTRESSING SPIRALS. As bank angle increases, more back-stick is needed to keep flying level. If the bank is too steep, the back-stick won't be able to keep up and the plane will spiral downward at increasing speed. Trying to pull the model out of the spiral by pulling back on the elevator only makes things worse. This sequence of events happens fast and can panic new flyers to the point they fly the model right into the ground! TO GET OUT OF THE SPIRAL, 1st LEVEL THE WINGS.
LANDING For your first landings, don't be concerned about trying to land in a particular spot. Just land safely, without damage to your model. At first, concentrate on flying in wide circles, as shown, and then simply glide down straight into the wind. With a 2-channel system, when the battery begins to run out, the model will start a gradual descent. Continue circling and start calculating how much longer the model will glide.
