Operation Manual

Heat pump water heater – INSTALLATION
36
4.3
Discharge of condensate
The condensate or water, which is formed in the outdoor unit during heating operation, must be eliminated, freely or
through the drain. Fix the drain connection into the hole which is located on the bottom of the unit and connect the
plastic tube with the connector. Ensure that the condensate water runs out in a suitable drain and make sure the
discharge is made without hindrance.
4.4 Tools for the connection of refrigerant lines
a) Group manometer suitable for use with R134a, with charge and vacuum tubes;
b) Vacuum pump;
c) Torque wrenches for nominal diameter of 1/4 “and 3/8” sizes on both sides to respond to the measures of the pipe
unions;
d) Flaring clamp ø nominal 1/4 “and 3/8”, equipped with a terminal receiving opening so that the projection of the
copper tube can be adjusted from 0 to 0.5 mm in the working folder ;
e) Pipe cutter;
f) Pipe reamer;
g) Leak Detector for R134a, a leak detector is used exclusively for HFC refrigerants. It must have a high detection
sensitivity, minimum 5g per year.
4.5 Preparing of the refrigerating pipes
WARNING! Before carrying out any installation check the following:
a) Use only copper tubes for air conditioners type (copper tubing for the refrigeration and the conditioning) or copper
pipes with proper insulation (at least 6 mm thick), suitable for use with R134a;
b) Never use piping with a thickness less than 0.8 mm;
c) Provide a path of the pipes as short and simple as possible (maximum length 8 m with 3 m of fall). Do not provide
a path that may obstruct the access to the cap and the removal of flange. See Figure 9.
d) Protect the pipes and cables to avoid damage;
WARNING! The re
frigerant lines, and fittings for connection must be insulated to avoid dangerous
burns, loss of performance and product malfunction. Ensure the insulating sheath of the tubes
through fastening clamps to prevent it from moving.
Remove the locking of the tubes shortly before making the connection: absolutely must prevent moisture or dirt from
entering. If a pipe is bent too often becomes hard: Do not bend more than 2 times in the same section. Unwind the
hose unwound without pulling (see fig. 8).
4.6 Connecting the internal unit
a) Shape the pipes according to the path;
b) Remove the brass plug on the indoor unit and store them (check that no impurities are left);
c) Cut the pipe to the fixed length, with a pipe cutter, avoiding any deformation;
d) Remove burrs with pipe reamer avoiding to get impurities inside (keep down the tube);
e) Insert the threaded brass flare nuts on the pipes in the correct direction;
f) Insert the tube into the flaring tool and make the flange at the end of the connecting pipe, as indicated in the table
(see fig. 10):
ø NOMINAL ø EXTERNAL THICKNESS mm
DIMENSION “A” mm
FLARING TOOL
DIMENSION “L” mm
FLARING TOOL
1/4
6.35
0.8
0 ÷ 0.5
1.8 ÷ 2.0
3/8
9.52
0.8
0 ÷ 0.5
2.5 ÷ 2.7
After confirming that there are no wrinkles or tears on the flare, connect the pipes using two spanners, being careful
not to damage the pipes. If the force is insufficient, then there will be leaks. Although the force is excessive, there may
be losses because it is easy to damage the flange. The safest method is to tighten the connection by using a spanner
and a torque wrench, in this case use the table:
ø
Pipe
Tightening torque [Kgf x cm]
Corresponding force (with 20 cm spanner)
6,35 mm (1/4”)
160
–
200
Wrist force
9,5 mm (3/8”)
300
–
350
Arm force
We recommend leaving a few inches of copper pipe, for any subsequent operations in near the taps.