KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE SEWING BASICS VARIOUS STITCHES APPENDIX Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).
INTRODUCTION Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this machine, carefully read the "IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS", and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference. IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
4 Always keep your work area clear: • Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth. • Do not store objects on the foot controller. • Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. • Never drop or insert any object into any opening. • Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8 For repair or adjustment: • If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer. • In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
CONTENTS 1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................5 NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ....................................................5 The main parts ................................................................................................................................................. 5 Needle and presser foot section ......................................................................................................................
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 3. VARIOUS STITCHES .....................................................................................35 STITCH SETTINGS ............................................................................................................. 35 Utility stitches .................................................................................................................................................
1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE 1 NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS The main parts a Bobbin winder (page 12) This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread. j Operation panel (page 7) This is used to select the stitch and specify the various settings. b Spool pin (pages 12 and 17) This holds the spool of thread. k Handwheel Used to manually raise and lower the needle. c Hole for extra spool pin (page 24) This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with two needles.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Needle and presser foot section d Presser foot holder screw Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot holder in place. e Presser foot The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching. f Feed dogs The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
Operation panel The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and specify how the stitch will be sewn. 3 ABC a LCD (liquid crystal display) The number of the selected stitch (1), the presser foot to be used (2), the stitch length (mm) (3), and the stitch width (mm) (4) are displayed here. b Stitch selection keys Press the stitch selection keys, and then select the number for the stitch that you wish to use.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— ACCESSORIES The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out most sewing tasks. Note (For U.S.A. only) ● Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used on the following machine models: HS-3000, SQ-9000, SQ9050, XR9500PRW. ● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122) 1. 9. 2. 10.
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE 1 Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine. ● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Foot controller Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket on the rear side of the sewing machine. Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller) a right to select the desired sewing speed. Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
Changing the initial needle position Normally, the straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected when the sewing machine is turned on. The machine can be set so that the straight stitch (center needle position) is automatically selected when it is turned on. a Turn off the sewing machine. Hold down the “+” side of When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to beep each time a key is pressed. This setting can be changed so that the machine does not beep.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— THREADING THE MACHINE Winding the bobbin This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin. • For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 14. 1 Pulling it in as far as possible. a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin winder shaft c Bobbin CAUTION ● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB) that have been designed for this sewing machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.
f press the foot controller or press While holding the end of the thread, gently (start/ stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button) to wind the thread around the bobbin a few times. Then stop the machine. i stop button) (for models equipped with the Press the foot controller or press (start/ start/stop button) to start. 1 Note ● If the sewing machine is to be operated using the foot controller, connect the foot controller before turning on the machine.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— ■ For models equipped with the fast bobbin winding system f (to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped Slide the sewing speed controller to the right with the sewing speed controller). Follow steps 1 through 2 of the procedure in a “Winding the bobbin” to pass the thread around the pre-tension disk (page 12). b so that the spring on the shaft fits into the Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft notch in the bobbin.
b Memo ● When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction. ● The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right. Slide the button and open the cover. 1 2 1 a Cover b Slide button c the direction shown by the arrow. Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in Lower threading Install the bobbin wound with thread.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— e place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in the right side (see arrow b) until the cover clicks into place. • If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension (page 31). • Replace the cover so that the end of the thread comes out from the left side of the cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).
Upper threading Set the upper thread and thread the needle. • For details on the needle threader, see page 18. 1 a Spool pin b Thread guide c Mark on the handwheel CAUTION ● Make sure you thread the machine properly. Otherwise, the thread could tangle and break the needle. a lever.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— c then put a spool of thread on this pin. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and Note ● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the upper thread cannot be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread. ● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.
d Fully lower the needle threader lever. g the needle toward the back of the sewing Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread through machine. 1 X The end of the needle threader rotates toward you and the hook passes through the eye of the needle. e Catch the thread on the hook as shown below. a 5 cm (2 inch) Note ● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems. a Hook b Thread f needle threader lever.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Drawing up the lower thread a Lightly hold the end of the upper thread. d and pull them toward the back of the machine Pull out about 10 cm (4 inch) of both threads under the presser foot.
REPLACING THE NEEDLE This section provides information on sewing machine needles. 1 Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. CAUTION ● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine. ● Never use bent needles.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION Replacing the needle ● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.
d use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp Hold the needle with your left hand, and then screw counterclockwise to remove the needle. f use the screwdriver to tighten the needle While holding the needle with your left hand, clamp screw by turning it clockwise. 1 Note ● The needle can be removed by simply loosening the needle clamp screw about one turn. (If the needle clamp screw is loosened too much, the needle clamp (which holds the needle) may fall off.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing with a twin needle We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threads. You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “STITCH SETTINGS” (page 35). CAUTION ● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: 131096-121).
REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT CAUTION ● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the controller, the machine will start and you may be injured. ● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury. ● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the ■ Attaching the presser foot holder presser foot holder. a left side of the presser bar. f presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the Align the presser foot holder with the lower- a Presser foot lever X The presser foot is attached. g presser foot is securely attached.
2 SEWING BASICS SEWING Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions. 2 CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur. ● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break. ● Never use bent needles.
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— d Selecting a stitch Using the stitch selection keys, select the desired stitch. When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight stitch ( left needle position) is selected. ■ [Example] Selecting stitch a (No. 04) Turn on the sewing machine. Attach the presser foot indicated on the LCD. a The presser foot to use • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 25).
g start sewing. When you have finished making adjustments, • For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 29). Starting to sew a toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark Raise the needle by turning the handwheel on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing once or twice.) Memo ● For details on selecting character stitches, refer to “Selecting characters” (page 64).
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— e Lower the presser foot lever. j Raise the presser foot lever. k and then pass the threads through the thread Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine, cutter to cut them. a Presser foot lever f controller, slide the sewing speed controller On models equipped with a sewing speed to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed. Refer to “Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller)” (page 10).
Adjusting thread tension Memo ● When you finish sewing, remove the bobbin cover and then make sure that the thread is shown as below. If the thread is not shown as below, the thread is not inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case correctly. Reinsert the thread correctly. For details, refer to page 15, 16. The thread tension will affect the quality of your stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread.
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— USEFUL SEWING TIPS Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. Trial sewing After you select a stitch, the machine automatically sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level. Sewing hook-and-loop fastener CAUTION a Sewing direction a to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot When you encounter a seam that is too thick ● Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is attached to the needle or the bobbin hook race, it may cause malfunction.
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper. a Stabilizer material or paper Sewing stretch fabrics First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.
3 VARIOUS STITCHES STITCH SETTINGS Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for stitches in the following table. CAUTION ● Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. ● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.
Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching 10 10 10 09 09 09 09 Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics 0 (0) -3m o3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) No No Rfc. R 11 11 11 10 10 10 10 Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics 0 (0) -3m o3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) No No Rfc. Appliqué stitch J 12 12 12 11 11 11 11 Appliqué stitching 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.6–4.0 (1/16–3/16) ** Yes (J) No Rfc.
Auto Manual Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching N 28 28 28 25 25 25 N 29 29 29 26 26 26 N 30 30 30 27 27 27 Decorative stitch Application Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight – and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight 24 and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight – and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Auto Auto Manual Manual Twin Needle Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching Presser Foot ————————————————————————————————————————————————— Straight stitch quilting that looks hand-sewn 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) No No Rfc. Stitch Width Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Pattern No.
Twin Needle Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching 63 59 55 47 - - - For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) No No Rfc. N 64 60 - - - - - For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) No No Rfc. N 65 61 56 48 47 39 - For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) No No Rfc. N 66 62 57 49 48 40 - For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.
Satin stitches Auto Auto Manual Manual Twin Needle Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching Presser Foot ————————————————————————————————————————————————— 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 0.4 (1/64) 0.1–1.0 (1/64–1/16) ** Yes (J) No Rfc. For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 0.4 (1/64) 0.1–1.0 (1/64–1/16) ** Yes (J) No Rfc. 36 For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 0.4 (1/64) 0.1–1.0 (1/64–1/16) ** Yes (J) No Rfc. For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.
Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching Presser Foot Twin Needle Crossstitches No No Rfc. 1.6 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) No No Rfc. 6.0 (15/64) 2.5 (3/32) 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 (0–1/4) (1/64–3/16) No No Rfc. For decoration, etc. 6.0 (15/64) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 (0–1/4) (1/64–3/16) No No Rfc. - For decoration, etc. 6.0 (15/64) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 (0–1/4) (1/64–3/16) No No Rfc. - For decoration, etc. 6.0 (15/64) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————— OVERCASTING STITCHES 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching 70 stitches model Walking Foot 80 stitches model Application Twin Needle Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] 90 stitches model Presser Foot Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Pattern No. 100 stitches model Stitch Name Pattern You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation.
BASIC STITCHING Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching J 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) ** Yes (J) * Yes Rev. Center J 01 01 01 01 01 01 Attaching zippers, basic 01 stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) ** Yes (J) * Yes Rev.
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————— BLIND HEM STITCHING Twin Needle Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching Stitch Width Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] R 10 10 10 09 09 09 Blind hem stitching on 09 medium weight fabrics 0 (0) -3m o3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) No No Rfc. R 11 11 11 10 10 10 10 Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics 0 (0) -3m o3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) No No Rfc. Pattern No.
h free-arm sewing possible. Remove the flat bed attachment and make • For details on free-arm sewing, refer to “Using a free-arm style” (page 34). ■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold If the needle catches too much of the hem fold, adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing the “+” side of the stitch width adjustment key. i arm, make sure that the fabric feeds correctly, Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the and then start sewing.
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————— BUTTONHOLE SEWING Twin Needle Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching Stitch Width Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] A 34 34 34 29 29 29 Horizontal buttonholes 25 on thin and medium weight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0-5.0 (1/8-3/16) 0.5 (1/32) 0.2-1.0 (1/64-1/16) No No * Auto Rfc. A 35 35 35 30 30 30 Secured buttoholes for 26 fabrics that have backings 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8-3/16) 0.
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below. 1 ■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————— • When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size. h fabric, and cut the thread. Raise the presser foot lever, remove the i position.
■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread. Hook the gimp thread onto the part of a buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it. Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. a button to be attached.
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————— d the fabric. Place a button between the presser foot and h (counterclockwise) to check that the needle Turn the handwheel toward you correctly goes into the two holes of the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes. • When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you.
ZIPPER INSERTION 01 01 01 *Do not use reverse stitching. 1 01 01 01 Attaching zippers, basic 01 stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. Auto Auto Manual Manual 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching 100 stitches model 90 stitches model 80 stitches model 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model I Application Walking Foot Stitch Width Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Pattern No.
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————— SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached. Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching J 03 03 03 03 03 03 03 Sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching 1.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Yes (J) No Rfc.
APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below. Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching J 04 04 04 04 04 04 04 Overcasting and attaching appliqués 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) ** Yes (J) * Yes Rfc. Zigzag stitch (for quilting) J 46 46 46 40 40 - - Appliqué quilting, freemotion quilting, satin stitching 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.
VARIOUS STITCHES d ————————————————————————————————————————————————— Carefully sew around the edge of the design. Piecing Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot. a fabric that you wish to piece together.
e foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while Place one hand on each side of the presser Quilting Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the optional quilting guide. sewing. Note ● Only use the walking foot with straight or zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns. Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the walking foot. a Baste the fabric to be quilted. b holder.
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————— Free-motion quilting With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. d rear of the machine on the base, to Slide the feed dog position lever, located at the (to the right as seen from the front of the machine). a holder.
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners. Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching J 02 02 02 02 02 02 Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, sewing 02 stretch fabrics and decorative stitching 0.0 (0) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) ** Yes (J) No Rfc. Bar tack stitch A 42 42 42 36 36 34 Reinforcing openings 30 and areas where the seam easily comes loose 2.0 (1/16) 1.0-3.
VARIOUS STITCHES c Select stitch ————————————————————————————————————————————————— e possible. . Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as d pocket faces toward you, and then lower the Position the fabric so that the opening of the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening. a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.
DECORATIVE STITCHING Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. Twin Needle Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching Stitch Width Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] J 19 19 19 17 17 17 17 Fagoting, smocking and decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) * Yes (J) No Rfc. J 20 20 20 18 18 18 Fagoting, smocking and 18 decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 2.5-7.0 (3/32-1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0-4.
————————————————————————————————————————————————— Walking Foot Reverse (Rev.)/ Reinforcement (Rfc.) Stitching Stitch Width Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Twin Needle VARIOUS STITCHES 2.0 (1/16) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) No No Rfc. Decorative stitching, smocking stitching, heirloom stitching, etc. 6.0 (15/64) 1.6 (1/16) 1.5-7.0 1.0-4.0 (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16) No No Rfc. Decorative stitching, smocking stitching, heirloom stitching, etc. 5.0 (3/16) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4) No No Rfc.
Scallop stitching The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs. a Attach monogramming foot “N”. b Select stitch . Smocking The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric. a Attach zigzag foot “J”. b stitch length to 4.
VARIOUS STITCHES g ————————————————————————————————————————————————— Pull out the threads for the straight stitches. e down to one side. Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks Shell tuck stitching The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics. a Fold the fabric along the bias. Joining Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics.
Heirloom stitching When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics. CAUTION ● The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back. For details, refer to “Upper threading” (page 17).
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————— SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with character stitches) 55 characters can be sewn by following the procedure below. d adjustment key) to enter the selected Press the “+” side of Selecting characters character. ■ Selecting a character [Example] Selecting stitch “C” (No. 03). a (stitch width N Turn on the sewing machine. a Stitch width adjustment key X The following display is shown on the LCD.
■ Combining characters You can easily sew names, messages, etc. by combining the character stitches. Up to 35 characters can be combined. f sewing. After checking the entered characters, start • For details on sewing characters, refer to “Sewing the character stitches” (page 67). [Example] Selecting stitches “COME” (No. 03)+(No. 15)+(No. 13)+(No. 05) Memo Follow steps a through e in “Selecting a a character” (page 64) to select the first character “C” (No. 03).
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Making a new combination of characters after sewing Checking characters You can check the characters in a combination with following method. Memo ● When you have finished sewing, the pattern No. of the first character in the current combination is shown on the LCD. N a adjustment key) repeatedly. Press the “+” or “-” side of This will display the characters that have been entered one by one on the LCD. You can check the pattern No.
Sewing the character stitches All character stitches are sewn with monogramming foot "N". a • For details, refer to “Selecting characters” Select a character stitch. (page 64) b Attach monogramming foot "N". 3 • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 25). c Start sewing. X The stitch is sewn in the direction indicated by the arrow. Memo ● When sewing characters, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches for each character. ● While sewing, the LCD shows the pattern No.
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————— ADJUSTING STITCHES (for models equipped with character stitches) Your stitch pattern may sometimes turn out poorly, depending on the type or thickness of fabric, the stabilizer material used, sewing speed, etc. If your sewing does not turn out well, sew trial stitches using the same conditions as the real sewing, and adjust the stitch pattern as shown below. d Memo Select No. 59 (for making adjustments).
f Sew the characters “034” again. Memo ● You can sew when you are in the stitch adjustment mode. If the stitch pattern still comes out poorly, adjust the stitch again. Adjust the stitch until the stitch pattern comes out correctly. g press the utility stitch key once, and then After you have finished adjusting the pattern, press the character stitch key. 3 N X The display returns to the normal character stitching mode.
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 4 APPENDIX MAINTENANCE Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. Cleaning the machine surface If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth.
e Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out. Remove the bobbin case. h needle plate, and then slide the cover back on. Put the tabs on the needle plate cover into the 1 a Bobbin case f remove any dust from the race and its Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to surrounding area. CAUTION ● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched, otherwise the upper thread may become tangled, the needle may break or sewing performance may suffer.
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— TROUBLESHOOTING If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at [http://solutions.brother.com]. If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
Symptom Possible cause You have not inserted the needle properly. The upper thread breaks. The lower thread is tangled or breaks. The thread is tangled on the wrong side of the fabric. The thread tension is incorrect. The upper thread is too tight. The fabric is wrinkled. How to put it right Insert the needle properly. Reference page 22 the needle plate. The area around the hole in the nee- Replace Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched. authorized service center.
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom The fabric is wrinkled. Stitches are skipped. There is a highpitched noise while sewing. The needle threader can not be used. The stitch is not sewn correctly. The fabric does not feed. The sewing light bulb does not come on. 74 Possible cause How to put it right Reference If you are sewing thin fabric, the stitch is too thick. Sew with stabilizer material under the fabric. page 34 The thread tension is incorrect.
ERROR MESSAGES If an operation is performed incorrectly before the sewing machine is set up, an error message appears on the operation panel. Follow the instructions indicated in the table. If you press the stitch selection key or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the message disappears.
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— i INDEX Numerics M 3-point zigzag stitch .......................................................42 main parts ........................................................................5 main power switch...........................................................9 monogramming.......................................................61, 63 A accessories .......................................................................
T thick fabrics....................................................................32 thin fabrics .....................................................................34 thread cutter...................................................................30 thread guide ...................................................................17 thread tension ................................................................31 trial sewing.....................................................................
XE7680-3013 English 885-S39 Printed in China