GETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES EMBROIDERY APPENDIX CPS5XV[Y Computerized Sewing and Embroidery Machine Operation Manual
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Federal Communications Commission (FCC) Declaration of Conformity (For USA Only) Responsible Party: Brother International Corporation 100 Somerset Corporate Boulevard Bridgewater, NJ 08807-0911 USA TEL : (908) 704-1700 declares that the product Product Name: Model Number: Brother Sewing Machine NV1200 This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Important Safety Instructions Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine. This machine is intended for household use. DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock: 1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning, when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— 6 This machine is not a toy: • Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children. • Do not use outdoors. 7 For a longer service life: • When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects. • Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Contents Important Safety Instructions .............................................................................................. 1 Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 7 Sewing Machine Features ....................................................................................................7 Accessories.................................................
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Useful Functions................................................................................................................59 Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ....................................................................................... 59 Automatically cutting the thread ..................................................................................................................... 60 Mirroring stitches .............
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns .............................................................126 Sewing beautiful patterns .............................................................................................................................. 126 Sewing patterns............................................................................................................................................. 126 Changing the pattern size...
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— APPENDIX 179 Care and Maintenance ....................................................................................................180 Cleaning the machine surface ....................................................................................................................... 180 Cleaning the race ..........................................................................................................................................
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Introduction Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “Important Safety Instructions” (page 1), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Accessories Included accessories After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your dealer. Note (For U.S.A. only) z Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used on this machine model NV1200. z The screw for the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Part Code U.S.A.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— No. Optional accessories The following are available as optional accessories. 1. 2. 3. 1 2 3 4 4. 5. 6. 8. 11. 7. 9. 10. Part Name Embroidery bobbin thread (white) Embroidery bobbin thread (black) Embroidery card Embroidery set (small) H 2 cm × W 6 cm (H 1 inch × W 2-1/2 inches) Embroidery set (medium) H 10 cm × W 10 cm (H 4 inches × W 4 inches) Part Code U.S.A.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts. Front view a Thread guide plate Pass the thread under the thread guide plate. i Embroidery unit connector slot Plug in the connector for the embroidery unit.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Needle and presser foot section Right-side/rear view a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is used with the one-step buttonhole foot to create buttonholes. a Handle Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine. b Thread guide disk Pass the thread through the thread guide disk when using the needle threader to thread the needle. b Handwheel Turn the handwheel toward you to raise and lower the needle.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Operation buttons The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations. a “Start/Stop” button Press the “Start/Stop” button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is pressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 51). The button changes color according to the machine’s operation mode.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Operation panel The front operation panel has an LCD (liquid crystal display) and operation keys. a c d b e f i g a LCD (liquid crystal display) (touch panel) Selected pattern settings and messages are displayed. Touch the keys displayed on the LCD to perform operations. For details, refer to “LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation” (page 18). b Back key Press to return to the previous screen.
1 GETTING READY The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter. Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................16 Power supply precautions ..................................................................................16 Turning on the machine .....................................................................................17 Turning off the machine .................................................
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Turning the Machine On/Off This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off. Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Turning on the machine Prepare the included power cord. a off (the main power switch is set to “ Make sure that the sewing machine is turned ”), and then plug the power cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine. Turning off the machine When you are finished using the sewing machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation Selected stitch, pattern settings and messages are displayed on the LCD (liquid crystal display) on the front of the sewing machine. Viewing the LCD When the power is turned on, the LCD comes on, and the following screen is displayed. The screen is changed using the keys below the screen, and operations performed by directly touching the icons on the LCD screen.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Changing the machine settings Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed. The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. Attribute Icon Details 1 Settings Needle position Specifies where the needle is positioned when the sewing machine is stopped. Stitch width control Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing speed controller.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— a Turn on the sewing machine. X The LCD comes on. b panel. Press (Settings key) on the operation X The settings screen appears. c Press the item to be set. Switch screens using (Previous page key) and (Next page key). • The items shown in reverse highlighting are the settings at the time of purchase.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— When settings are complete, press d (Back key). Checking machine operating procedures Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread / bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle replacement / embroidery unit attachment / embroidery frame attachment / embroidery foot attachment / presser foot replacement on the LCD. X The initial screen appears again. a Turn on the sewing machine.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Press d next page. (Next page key) to switch to the If you press (Previous page key), you return to the previous page. Example: Upper threading After you finish looking, press e key) two times. (Back X The initial stitch screen appears again. Note z For details on each topic, refer to the corresponding page in this Operation Manual.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Winding/Installing the Bobbin This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread. 1 Bobbin precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin. CAUTION ● Only use the Bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— a Turn on the sewing machine. b Open the top cover. Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto f the spool pin. Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom. • If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— While holding the thread near the spool with h your right hand, as shown, pull the thread with Memo z When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool. your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— While holding the thread with your left hand, k wind the thread that was pulled out clockwise Press (“Start/Stop” button) once to start n winding the bobbin. around the bobbin five or six times with your right hand. 1 a “Start/Stop” button Note z Make sure that the thread between the spool and the bobbin is pulled tight.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case so that d the thread unrolls to the left. Installing the bobbin Install the bobbin wound with thread. 1 CAUTION ● Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect. • Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly. CAUTION ● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and f then pull the thread out toward the front. 1 a Cutter X The cutter cuts the thread. Note z Make sure that the thread is correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted correctly, reinsert the thread. 1 a Tension-adjusting spring g Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the Reattach the bobbin cover.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Upper Threading This section describes how to position the spool for the upper thread, and then thread the needle. 1 CAUTION ● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled and the needle may bend or break. Memo z The order that the machine should be threaded is indicated by a solid line on the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Threading the upper thread d Open the top cover. Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then thread the machine. a Turn on the sewing machine. e spool pin. Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the Raise the presser foot lever to raise the presser b foot. 1 2 a a Spool pin b Spool cap Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— While holding the thread lightly with your h right hand, pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front. 1 Note z If the presser foot has been lowered and the shutter is closed, the machine cannot be threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot and open the shutter before threading the machine.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Threading the needle This section describes how to thread the needle. Memo z The needle threader can be used with sewing machine needles 75/11 through 100/16. z Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker cannot be used with the needle threader. z The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Note z If the needle was not completely threaded, but a loop in the thread was formed in the eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin Using the twin needle With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra spool pin and the spool cap. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” (page 68). d winder shaft.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Thread the upper thread for the right side in the g same way that the upper thread for the left side j was threaded. Turn on the sewing machine and select a stitch. • For stitch selection see “Selecting stitching” (page 49). • See “Stitch Setting Chart” (page 68) for stitches that use a twin needle. 1 Note z When using the pintuck foot (sold separately) to sew straight pintucks with the twin needle, select the stitch with the center needle position.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— l Press . CAUTION X displays in reverse highlight. • If pressed again, it returns to . The twin needle can now be used. m Press (Back key). X The initial screen appears again, and appears. CAUTION ● When using the twin needle, be sure to select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. n Start sewing. • For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 51).
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Pull out about 10-15 cm (4-5 inches) of the Pulling up the bobbin thread e bobbin thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine. When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below. a 1 Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case. • Refer to steps a through e of “Installing the bobbin” (page 27). Pass the bobbin thread through the slot. b Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Replacing the Needle This section describes how to replace the needle. Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. CAUTION ● Only use home sewing machine needles.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Needle types and their uses The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Checking the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even. Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Hold the needle with your left hand, and then e use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw toward you (counterclockwise) to remove the needle. While holding the needle with your left hand, g use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw. 1 1 2 Install the twin needle in the same way.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Replacing the Presser Foot This section describes how to replace the presser foot. Presser foot precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet. CAUTION ● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break. ● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Place a different presser foot below the holder e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the notch in the holder. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is positioned to be read. a b Note z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Hold the presser foot holder in place with your Removing and attaching the presser foot holder c right hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver in your left hand. Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the embroidery foot and optional quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing Cylindrical Pieces Free-arm sewing makes sewing cylindrical pieces easy. 1 Free-arm sewing Removing the flat bed attachment allows for free-arm sewing, making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs and pant legs. a Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left. X With the flat bed attachment removed, freearm sewing is possible. b arm, and then sew from the top.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— 46
2 SEWING BASICS The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter. Sewing.....................................................................................................................48 General sewing procedure .................................................................................48 Selecting stitching ..............................................................................................49 Positioning the fabric ..................................................
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions. CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur. ● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting stitching Stitches are selected using LCD operations. There are 71 utility stitches. Right after turning the power on, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected. The machine can also be set to select the straight stitch (center needle position). For details on changing the setting, refer to page 19. Determine the stitch to be used, and get the a matching presser foot ready. • Refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” (page 68).
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— While holding the end of the thread and the Positioning the fabric d fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching. Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. a Turn on the sewing machine. b twice to raise the needle.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Starting to sew Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the sewing speed controller or the foot controller. • If you continue to hold the (“Start/Stop” button) pressed immediately after the sewing starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed. Note z When the foot controller is plugged in, (“Start/Stop” button) cannot be used to start or stop sewing.
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on b the right side of the sewing machine. Slower 1 Faster • Slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly. X The machine starts sewing. a Foot controller jack When the end of the stitching is reached, f completely release the foot controller. Note (For U.S.A.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Securing the stitching When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread. 1 a beginning of the stitching, and then lower the Lower the needle into the fabric at the presser foot lever. a “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button X While (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) is held down, reverse stitches are sewn.
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn, (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button). g release Cutting the thread When you have finished sewing, cut the threads. X The machine stops sewing. Press (“Start/Stop” button), or press down h on the foot controller. At this time, if (“Start/Stop” button) is held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Using the thread cutter When sewing with thread thicker than #30, nylon or metallic threads, or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut the threads. When you wish to finish the stitching and the a sewing machine is stopped, press (“Needle Position” button) once to raise the needle. 2 1 a “Needle Position” button X The needle is raised. b Raise the presser foot lever.
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Setting the Stitch This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width, stitch length, and upper thread tension for each stitch.However, you can change any of the settings by pressing in the screen, then following the procedure described in this section. Note z If the thread tension cannot be adjusted as desired, refer to “Troubleshooting” (page 184). z Settings for some stitches cannot be changed.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the stitch length The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch longer or shorter. Adjusting the thread tension You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used. 2 Each press of makes the stitch shorter. ■ Correct thread tension The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric.
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Upper thread is too loose If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose. 5 1 2 3 a b c d e 4 Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Upper thread Bobbin thread The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric. Each press of makes the thread tension tighter. Memo z Press default.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Useful Functions Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below. Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches Position the fabric under the presser foot, and (“Start/Stop” button) once. d then press The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching.
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Set the fabric in place, and press Automatically cutting the thread d Stop” button) once. (“Start/ The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called “programmed thread-cutting”. If programmed threadcutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set. a 1 Turn on the sewing machine.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Mirroring stitches You can sew the mirror image of a stitch horizontally (left and right). a Turn on the sewing machine. 2 X The LCD comes on. b Select a stitch. c Press • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 49). on the screen. X It turns to , and the pattern displayed at the top of the screen is mirrored. • To turn the mirrored stitching off, press .
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Useful Sewing Tips Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. Trial sewing After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Turn the presser foot pressure dial at the back b of the machine to adjust the pressure of the presser foot. The presser foot pressure can be set to one of four levels (between 1 and 4). The larger the setting, the stronger the pressure. Use setting 1 or 2 for thick fabrics, use setting 3 or 4 for thinner fabrics. 1 When you encounter a seam that is too thick a to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot lever.
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing an even seam allowance Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking in the needle plate. The distance between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Using the knee lifter a Stop the sewing machine. • Do not use the knee lifter while the sewing machine is operating. With your knee, press the knee lifter to the b right. Keep the knee lifter pressed to the right. X The presser foot is raised. c Release the knee lifter. X The presser foot is lowered. CAUTION ● While sewing, keep your knee away from the knee lifter.
3 UTILITY STITCHES The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter. Stitch Setting Chart .............................68 Utility stitches ................................ 68 Other stitches................................. 72 Selecting Stitching ...............................75 Stitch types.....................................75 Selecting stitching .......................... 75 Saving stitch settings ......................77 Overcasting Stitches............................
——————————————————————————————————————————— UTILITY STITCHES Stitch Setting Chart Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table. Left 1 Center Straight stitch Center Right Zigzag stitch 2-point zigzag stitch 3-point zigzag stitch Manual Auto Manual 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J) Reverse No J Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–5.
Application Twin Needle Pattern Presser Foot Stitch Name Walking Foot ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching R Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics 00 (0) 3← – →3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) No Reinforcement No R Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics 00 (0) 3← – →3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) No Reinforcement No J Appliqué stitching 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.5 1.6–4.
Application 37 Decorative stitch 39 43 Hemstitching 44 45 Manual 1.6 1.0–4.0 Yes (1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No N Decorative stitching and elasticattaching 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No 3.5 (1/8) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 2.5 1.6–4.0 No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) Reinforcement No 6.0 1.5–7.0 (15/64) (1/16–1/4) 3.0 (1/8) 1.5–4.
Application Twin Needle Pattern Presser Foot Stitch Name Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching A Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) 0.5 0.3–1.0 No (1/32) (1/64–1/16) Automatic reinforcement No A Keyhole buttonholes for medium weight and thick fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) 0.5 0.3–1.0 No (1/32) (1/64–1/16) Automatic reinforcement No A Horizontal buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) 0.5 0.3–1.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Decorative stitches 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29* 30* 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 N No Large: No Large, Small: No Small Yes (*Not possible) Left/Right Flipping Adjustable Pattern Length/width Adjustable Stitching Density Pattern Size Pattern Twin Needle Stitch Type Presser Foot Other stitches Yes 31** 1 Satin stitches Crossstitches 11 12 13 14 15 16 1
4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 Character stitches (Gothic font) 51 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
74 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 N No Large, Small Left/Right Flipping 2 Adjustable Pattern Length/width 1 Adjustable Stitching Density Character stitches (Outli
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting Stitching This section provides details on the various types of stitches available and the procedure for selecting a stitch. h Combined utility stitches (Can be combined) You can sew with combinations from 39 utility stitches. Stitch types A stitch can be selected from the following types available. For details on the various stitches, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” (page 68).
UTILITY STITCHES c ——————————————————————————————————————————— Select the stitch type. If necessary, specify the setting for automatic e reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the When a decorative stitch is selected stitch length, etc. • For details on sewing with each of the utility stitches, begin on page 79. Note z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser foot that should be used appears on the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Example: Bus Saving stitch settings This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width (zigzag width), stitch length, thread tension, programmed thread cutting, and automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching for each stitch. However, if you wish to save specific settings for a stitch so that they can be used later, press after changing the settings to save the new settings with the selected stitch.
UTILITY STITCHES e Press ——————————————————————————————————————————— . Note z The next time that the same straight stitch is selected, the stitch length is set to 2.0 mm. z All stitch settings (stitch width (zigzag width), stitch length, thread tension, programmed thread cutting, and automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching, etc.) are saved, not just the setting that was changed. When the same stitch pattern is selected, the last settings saved are displayed even if the machine was turned off.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Overcasting Stitches Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent fabric from fraying. 15 stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used. Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”. Stitch Name Zigzag stitch (center needle position) Zigzag stitch (right needle position) Pattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual Preventing fraying (center baseline/reverse stitching) 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter. Note z Thread the needle manually when using the side cutter, or only attach the side cutter after threading the needle using the needle threader.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Raise the presser foot lever to check that the d side cutter is securely attached. Position the fabric in the side cutter. h The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter. Pass the upper thread under the side cutter, e and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine. a a Guide plate • If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Basic Stitching Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching. Stitch Name Basting stitch Pattern 6 1 Straight stitch (left needle position) Straight stitch (center needle position) Triple stretch stitch 2 3 4 Application Manual Auto Temporarily securing 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Lower the presser foot lever, and then start e sewing. • For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 51). • For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 53). f ■ Changing the needle position The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position). 1 2 When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Blind Hem Stitching Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching. Stitch Name Blind hem stitch Pattern 17 18 Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Application Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics 00 (0) 3← – →3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics 00 (0) 3← – →3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— ■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold The needle is too far to the right. Press to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem. Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly f catches the fold of the hem. 1 a Needle drop point 1 When you change the needle drop point, raise the needle, and then change the stitch width.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. 10 stitches are available for sewing one-step buttonholes and one stitch for sewing on buttons. Stitch Name Buttonhole stitch Pattern Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual Horizontal buttonholes on thin and medium weight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Buttonhole sewing The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below. 1 1 1 1 a Reinforcement stitching The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below. Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position a and length of the buttonhole.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).) d Select a stitch.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as f possible. Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at j the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut. 1 a a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. a Pin Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and k open the buttonhole.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Changing the density of the stitching Adjust the stitch length. ■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread. Hook the gimp thread onto the part of a buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration. • For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length” (page 57). • If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is too thick), decrease the density of the stitching.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Button sewing d Select stitch 61 . Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with two or with four holes can be attached. Measure the distance between the holes in the a button to be attached. • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 49). Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the b drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Turn the handwheel toward you g (counterclockwise) to check that the needle When you are finished attaching the button, (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) to raise the feed dogs. j slide the drop feed lever to correctly goes into the two holes of the button. If it seems as if the needle will hit the button, remeasure the distance between the holes in the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Zipper Insertion A zipper can be sewn in place. Stitch Name Straight stitch (center needle position) Pattern 3 Application Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and pintucks Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) Presser Foot I There are many methods for inserting zippers.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Align the seam with the center of the zipper, e and then baste the zipper in place. h Select stitch 3 . 2 1 3 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 49). a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stiching c Zipper CAUTION Remove about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of f the basting on the outside.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Press open the seam allowance from the Inserting a side zipper d wrong side of the fabric. Stitching is visible on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper application for side openings and back openings. 1 2 1 a Wrong side of fabric e (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra Press the seam allowance so that the right side 3 mm (1/8 inch).
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— h Select stitch 3 . When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the j end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever. k Open the zipper and continue sewing. • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 49).
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Topstitch around the zipper. n Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot. 3 2 1 a b c d e 4 5 Right side of fabric End of zipper opening Reverse stitches Beginning of stitching Basting stitching CAUTION ● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Zipper/piping Insertion A zipper and piping can be sewn in place. Stitch Name Straight stitch (left needle position) Pattern 1 Application Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and piping Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) Presser Foot There are many methods for inserting zippers and pipings.
——————————————————————————————————————————— UTILITY STITCHES Inserting a piping CAUTION ● After adjusting the needle position, slowly turn the handwheel toward you and check the needle does not touch (counterclockwise) the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. Place the piping between two fabric pieces a turned inside out, as shown below. 1 2 g screwdriver.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached. Stitch Name Stretch stitch Pattern 5 2-point zigzag stitch 9 3-point zigzag stitch 10 Elasticattaching stitch 34 Application Stretch fabrics Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 1.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.
UTILITY STITCHES c ——————————————————————————————————————————— Select a stitch. Example: 2-point zigzag stitch Example: Elastic-attaching stitch • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 49). d stretching the tape so that it is the same length Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below. Stitch Name Pattern 7 Zigzag stitch 24 19 Appliqué stitch 25 21 Piecing straight stitch 22 Application 29 Manual Auto Manual Attaching appliqués (center baseline/reverse stitching) 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching 3.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— e Appliqué stitching Select a stitch. For best results, use the included open toe foot. a allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam 3/16 inch). 1 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 49). a Seam allowance Place a pattern made of thick paper or b stabilizer on the back of the appliqué, and then fold over the seam allowance using an iron.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and a place it over the lower piece. Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the b pattern spans over both pieces. Piecing Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 7 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 7 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— ■ For a seam allowance on the left side Align the left side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch 22 . When sewing with a seam allowance, align the left edge of the narrow part of the 1/4 inch quilting foot with the fabric edge. 1 1 a 7 mm (1/4 inch) a Seam (3.2 mm (1/8 inch)) Memo z To change the width of the seam allowance (needle position), adjust the stitch width.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser d foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw Quilting with the screwdriver. Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the optional quilting guide. a a Baste the fabric to be quilted. Remove the presser foot and the presser foot b holder.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Using the optional quilting guide Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced. Free-motion quilting With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. When free-motion quilting, use the following instructions with the optional quilting foot.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION ● Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break. d the machine on the base, to Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine). a Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the stitch width of a satin stitch.
UTILITY STITCHES e Press ——————————————————————————————————————————— (Back key). X The initial screen appears again. f Select stitch 24 . • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 49). While sewing, slide the sewing speed g controller to adjust the stitch width. Slide the controller to the left to make the width narrower. Slide the controller to the right to make the width wider. Narrower Wider • Adjust the sewing speed with the foot controller.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Reinforcement Stitching Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners. Stitch Name Triple stretch stitch Bar tack stitch Pattern 60 59 Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Manual Auto Manual 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Reinforcing the ends of 2.0 openings, such as the corners of (1/16) pockets 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 0.4 (1/64) 0.3–1.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— b Attach buttonhole foot “A”. c Select stitch 60 Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 42). e possible. . a a Buttonhole lever • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 49). The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Darning Fabric that has been torn can be darned. Darning is sewn as shown below. 1 3 1 a Reinforcement stitching Determine the desired length of the darning. a Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot c Select stitch 58 or 59 . “A” to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).) 1 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 49).
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. g and then cut the threads. Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric, • When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the darning will not be sewn with the correct size. h position. Raise the buttonhole lever to its original Memo z If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Eyelet Stitching Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4, 15/64 and 3/16 inch). Stitch Name Eyelet stitch a Pattern 62 Application Sewing eyelets, for example, on belts Attach monogramming foot “N”. Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Auto Manual 7.0 (1/4) 7.0, 6.0 or 5.0 (1/4, 15/64 or 3/16) Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual 7.0 (1/4) 7.0, 6.0 or 5.
——————————————————————————————————————————— UTILITY STITCHES Horizontal Stitching Horizontal stitching is used to attach appliqués to fabric that cannot be moved around, such as cylindrical pieces. Straight stitches and zigzag stitches that sew to either the left or right are available.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Press h button). (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” Hold (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) pressed until the stitching reaches the upper-left corner. X The fabric is fed forward. i sewing machine, and then select stitch 69 After you have sewn to the corner, stop the j . 3 Start sewing. X The fabric is fed to the left. After you have sewn to the corner, stop the k sewing machine, and then select stitch 1 again.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Decorative Stitching The utility stitches contain the following decorative stitches. Stitch Name Pattern Application Manual Auto Manual 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/25–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 (1/16) 0.2–4.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 6.0 (15/64) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 35 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 3.0 (1/8) 2.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Rick-rack stitch 36 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Decorative stitch 37 5.5 (7/32) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Scallop stitching The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of projects. a Attach monogramming foot “N”. Smocking The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— e Select stitch 31 , 32 or 33 . Shell tuck stitching The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics. a Fold the fabric along the bias. b Attach zigzag foot “J”. • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 49). f Stitch between the straight stitches. J g Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Sew while making sure that the needle drops d slightly off the edge of the fabric. Joining Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt. 1 a Attach zigzag foot “J”. J a Needle drop point • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 42). Sew together the right sides of the two pieces b of fabric, and then open up the seam allowances.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Select a stitch. Heirloom stitching c The stitches that can be used are 39 41 When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics. , 42 , 43 , 44 , 45 , 46 , 40 , or 47 . Note z If the thread becomes tangled, use stabilizer material. a Install the wing needle.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Partially removing threads is called “drawnwork”. This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a loose weave. Two ways to create drawnwork are described below. e Press on the LCD. X The pattern displayed at the top of the screen is mirrored. ■ Drawnwork (Example 1) Sew along the other edge of the frayed section f so that it looks like the previous stitching. a Pull out several threads from the fabric.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Drawnwork (Example 2) Pull out several threads from two sections of a the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of about 4 mm (3/16 inch). 3 1 a 4 mm (3/16 inch) b Attach monogramming foot “N”. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 42). c Select stitch 42 . • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 49). d Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns You can sew decorative stitches, satin stitches, cross stitches, decorative satin stitches, combined utility stitches and 3 types of character stitches. All are sewn with monogramming foot “N”. Sewing beautiful patterns In order to sew the patterns correctly, the following must be considered.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Changing the pattern size Changing the stitch density The size of character stitches in the Gothic font and outline style, decorative stitches, and decorative satin stitches can be switched between large and small. However, the size of other patterns cannot be changed. a Select a stitch. b Press If a decorative satin stitch has been selected, the stitch density can be changed.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Changing the length for satin stitches c Press . The length for one satin stitch can be changed in five gradations. a Press (Utility stitch key) on the operation panel, and select (Satin stitch). X It turns to b 128 and the pattern is longer. Select a satin stitch pattern. Each time you press it the number changes. You can select from .
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Shifting patterns c Press . Satin stitches can be shifted to the left or right by half the width of the pattern, allowing you to create a stepshaped pattern. This is called a “step pattern”. Select once to move the stitch pattern to the left by half the width of the stitch pattern. Select once to move the stitch pattern to the right by half the width of the stitch pattern.
UTILITY STITCHES e Press ——————————————————————————————————————————— . Combining patterns You can sew with combinations of stitches from character stitches, decorative stitches, satin stitches, combined utility stitches, decorative satin stitches and cross stitches. a operation panel, and select the stitch type. Touch X The next pattern selected is moved half a width to the left. b (Utility stitch key) on the Select the first pattern. X The first pattern is selected and appears in on the screen.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— c Select the next pattern. X The combined pattern appears on the screen. ■ Repeating patterns When multiple stitches are combined, the sewing machine stops when the pattern displayed on the screen has been completed. Use the following operations to sew a combined pattern repeatedly. a After the patterns have been combined, press . If pressed again, it turns to (single sewing). • To remove a selected pattern, press on the screen.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Mirroring a pattern image a After a single pattern has been selected, press to mirror the pattern image horizontally. ■ Checking the pattern When the specified pattern is not displayed on the screen, check the pattern using the following steps. a Press . X The screen for checking the pattern is displayed. b Press c Press , and confirm the pattern. (Back key). X The initial screen appears again.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Retrieving a pattern Saving patterns Combined patterns can be saved for later use. Since saved patterns are not lost after the sewing machine is turned off, they can be retrieved at any time. Up to 10 patterns can be saved. a Press . Retrieve the saved pattern. ■ Saving a pattern Create the combined pattern that you wish to a save. • For details, refer to “Combining patterns” (page 130). Press b panel.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Deleting a saved pattern Saved pattern in the pockets can be deleted. a Press Realigning the pattern The pattern may not be sewn correctly, depending on the type of fabric being sewn or the sewing speed. If this occurs, adjust the pattern while sewing on a piece of scrap fabric that is the same as that used for your project. . a Attach monogramming foot “N”. Select the pocket where the pattern you wish b to delete is stored.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d Start sewing. f Press (Settings key) on the operation panel. X The settings screen appears. X The pattern for making the adjustment is sewn. g To adjust the vertical position, press Press X The sewing machine stops after it has finished sewing the pattern. . for vertical pattern adjustment. To adjust the horizontal position, press for horizontal pattern adjustment. Check the sewn pattern.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Horizontal pattern adjustment Press to increase the horizontal space in the design. Press to decrease the horizontal space in the design. h Press (Back key). X It returns to the screen for adjusting the pattern. i machine and check the stitching. Select once again, start the sewing Continue adjusting the pattern until it is sewn correctly.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Designing a Pattern (My Custom Stitch) With the My Custom Stitch function, you can sew stitch patterns that you design yourself. Mark the points in the pattern that are Drawing a sketch of the pattern c positioned at intersections in the grid, and then link those points with a continuous straight line. Prepare a grid sheet set. Draw a sketch of the pattern on the grid sheet a set. 3 d Determine the sewing order.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Specify the coordinates of the second point, . e and then press Entering the pattern data Follow the pattern drawn on the grid sheet and program the pattern into the sewing machine. a Attach monogramming foot “N”. Repeat steps d through e to specify each f point. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 42). b Press (Utility stitch key) on the operation panel, and select .
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Specify the various stitching settings, such as h reverse/reinforcement stitching, in the same way as with other stitches. • To revise the pattern, press . Memo z The pattern you entered can be saved for later use. For details, refer to “Saving patterns” (page 133).
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Examples of designs Enter each of the points indicated in the table to sew the sample stitch.
4 EMBROIDERY The steps for embroidering are described in this chapter. Embroidering Neatly ......................... 142 Selecting Embroidery Patterns ...........157 What to prepare........................... 142 Embroidery step by step ............... 144 Copyright information..................157 Embroidery pattern types .............157 LCD (liquid crystal display) operation ..........................................158 Selecting characters .....................160 Selecting an embroidery pattern ..
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Embroidering Neatly This section describes the preparations and basic procedures for embroidering. What to prepare ■ Stabilizer material Attach a stabilizer material for embroidery to the fabric to prevent poor quality embroidery designs. The following is necessary for embroidering. ■ Fabric Prepare the fabric for embroidery. Prepare a piece of fabric a little larger than the embroidery frame that matches the size of the pattern you want to sew.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Needle Use a 75/11 home sewing machine needle. When embroidering on thick fabrics such as denim, use a 90/14 home sewing machine needle. Memo z A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased. z When replacing the needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 40).
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Embroidery step by step The basic steps for embroidery are as follows. 1 Presser foot attachment Attach the embroidery foot “Q”. For details on attaching the embroidery foot, refer to “Attaching the embroidery foot” (page 145). ↓ 2 Checking the needle Use a needle matched to the fabric. For details on replacing the needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 40). ↓ 3 Embroidery unit attachment Attach the embroidery unit.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Attaching the Embroidery Foot This section describes how to attach the embroidery foot. Attaching the embroidery foot Attach the embroidery foot when embroidering. Have the included embroidery foot “Q” and a screwdriver ready. 1 CAUTION ● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if (“Start/Stop” button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. c Raise the presser foot lever.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Loosen the presser foot holder screw and e remove the presser foot holder. Turn the screwdriver toward the back. Secure the embroidery foot with the presser h foot holder screw. Set the embroidery foot perpendicular. b a c a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw f hand, as shown. Hold the embroidery foot with your right Firmly tighten the presser foot holder screw. i Turn the screwdriver toward the front.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Removing the embroidery foot Press (“Needle Position” button) once or a twice to raise the needle. 1 a “Needle Position” button b Turn off the sewing machine. c Raise the presser foot lever. 4 a a Presser foot lever X The presser foot is raised. d embroidery foot with your finger, loosen the While pressing in the lever at the back of the presser foot holder screw, and then remove embroidery foot “Q”. Turn the screwdriver toward the back.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Attaching the Embroidery Unit This section describes how to attach the embroidery unit. Embroidery unit precautions Cautions for the embroidery unit will be explained below. Attaching the embroidery unit Get the included embroidery unit ready. CAUTION ● Do not move the sewing machine with the embroidery unit in place. The embroidery unit may be dropped and cause injury.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Slide the embroidery unit onto the sewing d machine arm. Push it in until it clicks and stops. CAUTION ● Do not put your hands or other objects near the carriage. It may cause injury. Note z If the machine is initialized with hands or objects near the carriage, the screen may return to the initial display. After removing whatever is near the carriage, turn the power on again. X The embroidery unit is attached.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Hold the release button on the bottom left of Removing the embroidery unit d the embroidery unit, and slowly pull the embroidery unit to the left. Make sure that the sewing machine is completely stopped and follow the instructions below. a Remove the embroidery frame. b Press • For details on removing the embroidery frame, refer to “Removing the embroidery frame” (page 156). , and then press .
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Preparing the Fabric After attaching a stabilizer material to the embroidery fabric, it is stretched on an embroidery frame. Prepare stabilizer material that is larger than Attaching an optional stabilizer material to the fabric a the embroidery frame being used. Attach a stabilizer material for embroidery to the fabric to prevent poor quality embroidery designs.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Setting the fabric in the embroidery frame The fabric is stretched in the embroidery frame. If the fabric is loose, the quality of the embroidery pattern may be poor. Put the fabric in the frame without slack following the steps below. Have a fabric with a stabilizer material attached and the embroidery frame (medium, small, large or extra large (multi-position)) ready.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Tighten the adjustment screw by hand just d enough to secure the fabric. Tighten the adjustment screw while removing g any slack in the fabric by hand. The goal is to have a drum-like sound when the stretched fabric is struck lightly. Gently remove the fabric from the frame e without loosening the adjustment screw.
EMBROIDERY b ————————————————————————————————————————————— Place the embroidery sheet on the inner frame. 1 3 ■ Embroidery on fabrics that cannot be stretched on an embroidery frame When small pieces of fabric that cannot be stretched on an embroidery frame or thin pieces like ribbon are being embroidered, use stabilizer material as a base to stretch on the frame. We recommend stabilizer material for all embroidery.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Attaching the Embroidery Frame This section describes how to attach the embroidery frame. Attaching the embroidery frame 1 Wind the embroidery bobbin thread onto the a bobbin and set it into the bobbin case. • For details, refer to “Winding/Installing the Bobbin” (page 23). b 1 a Lever Raise the presser foot lever.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Pass the embroidery frame under the presser c foot while raising the presser foot lever even Removing the embroidery frame further. Make sure that the sewing machine is completely stopped and follow the instructions below. a Raise the presser foot lever. a CAUTION a Presser foot lever While pushing the lever of the embroidery b frame holder to the left, lift the embroidery frame up to remove it.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting Embroidery Patterns This section provides details on the various types of embroidery patterns available and the procedure for selecting a pattern. ■ Frame patterns 10 shapes, such as squares and circles, can be combined with 12 stitch types. Copyright information The patterns saved in the sewing machine and embroidery cards are intended for private use only.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— LCD (liquid crystal display) operation The LCD (liquid crystal display) is operated using the operation keys on the operation panel. The use of the keys for embroidery will be explained below. ■ Operation keys DISPLAY UNIT The measurement units that are displayed can be selected. [mm/inch] EMBROIDERY TENSION The thread tension for embroidering can be adjusted. [-8 to +8] Returns to the previous screen.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ LCD button When a specific pattern is selected, press this key and then, press to switch the display. The sewing settings such as the specified alphabet character string and color are confirmed. The needle progresses one color or one stitch (if pressed continuously, 9 stitches to 20 stitches) at a time and changes the position for starting the embroidery.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting characters Specify the characters for embroidery. Memo z When “The pattern is too large for the embroidery frame.“ is displayed, no more characters can be input. z Characters of different styles (sans serif, serif, and outline, etc.) cannot be combined. a Select the character stitches. b Select the character style. c If a wrong character was selected, press Select the characters. .
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Select the pattern. b Switch the screen using key) and (Previous page (Next page key). Memo z The character pattern that you created can be saved for later use. For details, refer to “Saving patterns” (page 176). / is pressed, the display of • When patterns moves backward/forward 10 patterns. Selecting an embroidery pattern There are total of 136 embroidery patterns, such as fruits and animals, saved in the machine's memory.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Select the stitch. Selecting a frame pattern 10 shapes, such as squares and circles, can be combined with 12 stitch types. c Switch the screen using (Previous page key) (Next page key), and select from the 12 stitches. Memo z Refer to “Frame patterns“ in the Quick reference guide for frame pattern shapes and stitches. a Press the frame pattern. X The frame shape selection screen is displayed. b Switch the screen using Select the frame shape.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Insert the embroidery card in the embroidery Using an embroidery card (sold separately) b card slot on the right side of the sewing machine. Face the arrow on the embroidery card toward you, and insert it in the direction of the arrow. If an embroidery card is used, you can embroider patterns other than the patterns saved in the sewing machine. There are various cards with different themes.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Embroidering After the preparations are done, you can try embroidering. This section describes the steps for embroidering and appliquéing. Sewing attractive finishes There are many factors that go into sewing beautiful embroidery. Using the appropriate stabilizer (page 151) and hooping the fabric in the frame (page 152) are two important factors mentioned earlier. Another important point is the appropriateness of the needle and thread being used.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Example: Embroidery thread number selected Embroidering a pattern Embroidery patterns are embroidered with a change of thread after each color. Prepare embroidery thread of the color shown a on the screen. c a b d e a Embroidery frames that can be used for embroidering b Current color step/Number of colors in design c Current name of color d Current color part e Next color part Set the embroidery thread, and thread the b needle.
EMBROIDERY d ————————————————————————————————————————————— Lower the presser foot lever. h Press (“Start/Stop” button) again. X The embroidery begins again. X Stitching stops automatically with reinforcement after one color has been completed. When automatic thread cutting is set, the thread is cut. 1 Set up embroidery thread for the next color, a through h . i and repeat steps a Presser foot lever e Press (“Start/Stop” button). j Cut the excess thread.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Remove the fabric from the embroidery frame, d and cut it out along the cut-out line. Appliquéing Cut carefully along the stitching and remove the thread. Prepare the base fabric and the appliqué fabric (appliqué piece). Press (Settings key), and set the thread color display to NAME OF COLOR, so “APPLIQUE MATERIAL”, “APPLIQUE POSITION” and “APPLIQUE” are displayed on the screen. a Select an appliqué pattern.
EMBROIDERY i ————————————————————————————————————————————— Lower the presser foot lever, and press (“Start/Stop” button). Note z When “APPLIQUE MATERIAL”, “APPLIQUE POSITION” and “APPLIQUE” are displayed, a specific color thread does not appear. Use a proper color thread to match the appliqué piece. j change thread colors as you sew.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Editing Patterns This section describes ways to edit, adjust, and reposition patterns. Adjusting the layout The pattern is normally positioned in the center of the embroidery frame. You can check the layout before starting embroidery and change the position and the size. Memo z Keys that appear surrounded with a dotted line cannot be used. a After selecting the embroidery pattern, press . X The embroidery screen is displayed.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Starting point key Moves the needle start position to align the needle with the pattern position. Memo z If you make a note of the values in the lower part of screen when you change the size and position, you can sew with the same size and layout even if you have to turn the power back on in the middle of your work. • Press to return to the previous screen. Layout key Press this key to move to rotation screen.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d Press (Back key) to return to the original screen. Adjusting the thread tension If embroidery fails, it is difficult to undo the thread and the fabric may be damaged. Before embroidering, use a scrap of the same fabric to check the adjustment of the thread tension, etc. To adjust the thread tension, press key). (Settings Memo z When the power is turned off, the layout returns to the original setting.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Thread runs out partway through a design Resewing When the wrong upper thread color has been sewn, it can be resewn with the correct color. Press (“Start/Stop” button) to stop the a sewing machine. b Press c Press . When the upper thread or the bobbin thread runs out while sewing, the sewing machine stops. Move the needle back about 10 stitches and resume sewing. a Set up the upper or bobbin thread. b Press . c Press . .
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Stopping while embroidering c Press (Embroidery key). If the embroidery is stopped before it is complete, check the current needle count before turning off the sewing machine. Memo z When the sewing machine is turned off, the embroidery size and layout return to the original setting. Press (“Start/Stop” button) to stop the a sewing machine. X The confirmation message is displayed. d .
EMBROIDERY h Press ————————————————————————————————————————————— . i the beginning of the color you want to Press (Forward one color) to move to embroider. Press (Forward one stitch) to increase j the needle count. If is pressed continuously, it moves forward 1 —> 9 —> 30 stitches. Move forward to about 10 stitches before the total number of stitches confirmed in b. k 174 Restart the embroidery.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Using the Memory Function Embroidery data precautions Observe the following precautions when using embroidery data other than that created and saved in this machine. CAUTION ● When using embroidery data other than our original patterns, the thread or needle may break when sewing with a stitch density that is too fine or when sewing three or more overlapping stitches. In that case, use one of our original data design systems to edit the embroidery data.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Saving patterns The embroidery patterns and the alphabet characters you have customized can be saved in the sewing machine's memory. Since the saved patterns will not be erased when the power is turned off, you can always retrieve them for embroidery. This is convenient for saving names and the like. You can save up to 12 patterns or 512 KB of data. b Select the pattern you wish to retrieve.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— c Retrieving embroidery patterns from the computer Copy the pattern data to “Removable Disk”. Plug the USB cable connectors into the a corresponding USB port connectors on the computer and on the machine. a b X Pattern data in “Removable Disk” is written to the machine. Note z While data is being written, do not disconnect the USB cable. z Do not create folders within “Removable Disk”.
EMBROIDERY e ————————————————————————————————————————————— Select the pattern you wish to retrieve. Switch screens using and (Previous page key) Adjust the pattern as desired, and then begin g embroidering. (Next page key). b a c Note a Total amount of memory used b Total amount of memory space c Number of the currently displayed page from the total number of pages X The selected pattern is shown in reverse highlighting. f Press . X The saved pattern is retrieved.
5 APPENDIX The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter. Care and Maintenance ..........................................................................................180 Cleaning the machine surface ..........................................................................180 Cleaning the race .............................................................................................180 Troubleshooting ............................................................
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Care and Maintenance Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover, and Cleaning the machine surface d then slide it toward you. If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning it once with a damp cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Insert the bobbin case so that the projection g on the bobbin case aligns with the spring. Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into h the needle plate, and then slide the cover back on. a a b a Needle plate cover 2 1 a Projection b Spring CAUTION ● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched, otherwise the upper thread may become tangled, the needle may break or sewing performance may suffer.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Troubleshooting If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. If the problem persists, contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Symptom The sewing machine does not operate. Probable Cause Remedy Reference The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 17 The “Start/Stop” button was not pressed. Press the “Start/Stop” button.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom The upper thread breaks. Probable Cause Remedy Reference The upper thread was not threaded correctly (for example, the spool is not installed correctly, the spool cap is too big for the spool being used, or the thread has come out of the needle bar thread guide). Correct the upper threading. page 29 There are knots or tangles in the thread. Remove any knots or tangles. – The selected needle is not appropriate for the thread being used.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom The lower thread is tangled or breaks. The thread tension is incorrect. The fabric is wrinkled. 184 Probable Cause Remedy Reference The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the bobbin thread. The bobbin is scratched or does not rotate smoothly, or has a burr on it. Replace the bobbin. The thread is tangled. Remove the tangled thread and clean the race.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Stitches are skipped. A high-pitched noise is made while sewing. The thread does not pass through the eye of the needle. The stitch is not sewn correctly. The fabric does not feed. Probable Cause Remedy Reference The upper thread was not threaded correctly. Correct the upper threading. page 29 The combination of fabric, thread and needle is not correct. Select a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference The sewing lamp is damaged. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 17 Nothing appears in the LCD. The brightness of the LCD is either too light or too dark. Adjust the brightness of the LCD. page 190 Machine does not operate when button is pressed. An animation is displayed on the LCD.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Error messages When erroneous operations are performed messages and advice on operation will be displayed on the LCD. Follow what is displayed. The message may disappear if the operation is performed correctly. The message will disappear if is pressed while the message is displayed. Error Message Probable Cause There is a possibility that the data for the selected pattern is corrupted.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Error Message Probable Cause A stitch other than the buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was selected and the “Start/Stop” button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is lowered. The buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was selected and the “Start/ Stop” button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is raised. The “Start/Stop” button, “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button or “Thread Cutter” button was pressed while the presser foot was raised.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Error Message Probable Cause When the embroidery unit is attached. You tried to set a number of characters that will not fit within the frame. The upper thread has become tangled around the bobbin case, and the needle is bent and hitting the needle plate, etc., so the sewing machine stops (refer to page 182). You tried a function that cannot be used when the embroidery unit is attached.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the LCD If nothing appears in the LCD when the sewing machine is turned on, the brightness of the LCD is either too light or too dark. In such a case, perform the following operation. a Turn off the sewing machine. Turn on the sewing machine while pressing Press or . Turn off the sewing machine, then turn it on d again. 190 Each time a key is pressed you will hear one beep.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Canceling the operation beep e Press (Back key). When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to beep each time an operation panel key is pressed. This setting can be changed so that the machine does not beep. a Turn on the sewing machine. X The initial screen appears again. X The LCD comes on. Press b panel. (Settings key) on the operation 5 X The settings screen appears. c Press d Press OFF for the buzzer. (Next page key) three times.
—————————————————————————————————————————————— APPENDIX Upgrading Your Machine’s Software You can use a computer to download software upgrades for your sewing machine. Visit our website at www.brother.com for notification of available updates. Note z There are two upgrade files. Be sure to download both files successively. Memo z When the machine's software is upgraded, saved combinations of character and decorative stitches are erased. However, saved embroidery patterns are not erased.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Index Numerics 1/4 inch quilting foot ........................................... 10, 106 1/4 inch quilting foot with guide ...................................10 A accessories ............................................................... 8, 10 adjustable zipper/piping foot .................................... 9, 99 adjusting layout .......................................................... 169 adjusting stitch length ..................................
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— F N fabric positioning .......................................................... 50 fagoting .......................................................................119 fagoting stitch .............................................................118 feed dog position switch ............................................... 12 feed dogs ...................................................................... 12 flat bed attachment ......................
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Q quick reference guide ..................................................... 9 quilt stitching .............................................................. 103 quilting .......................................................................107 quilting foot .................................................................. 10 quilting guide ....................................................... 10, 108 quilting stippling ..............................
English 885-U11 XE0535-001 Printed in China
