GETTING READY Read before use. SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES Read when additional information is required.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine. DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock: 1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning, when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended. WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or in- jury to persons.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ 5 Always keep your work area clear: β’ Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth. β’ Do not store objects on the foot controller. β’ Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. β’ Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS This machine is intended for household use. This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Contents IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ...............................................................................1 Introduction ........................................................................................................................7 Sewing Machine Features ....................................................................................................7 Accessories..................................................................
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ SEWING BASICS 49 Sewing...............................................................................................................................50 General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 50 Positioning the fabric ............................................................................................................................
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................ 104 Free-motion quilting...................................................................................................................................... 105 Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller .....................................................................................
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Introduction Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the βIMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONSβ (page 1), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Accessories After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your dealer. Included accessories The following items should also be included in the box. Note (For U.S.A. only) z Foot controller: Model N5V This foot controller can be used on this machine model NX-650/NX-800/SB4138/PC660LA. z The screw for the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.* 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 34. 35. 36. 37. No.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts. Front view 2 1 3 4 5 C 6 B A 7 0 9 8 a Thread guide plate Pass the thread under the thread guide plate. b Thread guide cover Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover when threading the upper thread.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Needle and presser foot section a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is used with the one-step buttonhole foot to create buttonholes. b Thread guide disk Pass the thread through the thread guide disk when using the needle threader to thread the needle. c Needle bar thread guide Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide. d Needle plate The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew straight seams.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Operation buttons The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations. a βStart/Stopβ button Press the βStart/Stopβ button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to βStarting to sewβ (page 52).
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Operation panel The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of the LCD (liquid crystal display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings. 1 2 3 4 5 6 0 7 9 8 D A E B F G I C H a LCD (liquid crystal display) Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for incorrect operations appear in the LCD. Use keys b and g through s, described below, to display various items and select the settings.
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1 GETTING READY The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter. Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................16 Power supply precautions ..................................................................................16 Turning on the machine .....................................................................................17 Turning off the machine .................................................
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Turning the Machine On/Off This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off. Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. WARNING β Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Turning on the machine Prepare the included power cord. a off (the main power switch is set to β Make sure that the sewing machine is turned β), and then plug the power cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine. Insert the plug of the power cord into a b household electrical outlet. Turning off the machine When you are finished using the sewing machine, turn it off.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Understanding the LCD Screens The LCD screen, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the selected stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly.When the sewing machine is turned on, the LCD comes on and the following screen appears.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Changing the Machine Settings Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed. Changing the settings The general procedure for changing machine settings is described below. a c Press or (Stitch length keys) until the stitch or machine attribute that you wish to set is displayed. Turn on the sewing machine. 1 a Stitch length keys X The LCD comes on. Press b panel.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ β List of stitch or machine attributes The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. For details on each attribute, refer to the corresponding reference page. Attribute Icon Details Check pattern Allows combined patterns to be checked. page 124 Mirror imaging Mirror images patterns along a vertical axis. page 129 Pattern length Adjusts the length of satin stitches.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Adjusting the brightness of the LCD The brightness of the LCD can be adjusted. a Press (Settings key) in the operation panel, and then press keys) until or Changing the screen language The language used in the screens that are displayed can be changed to one of the many available. a (Stitch length (Settings key) in the operation panel, and then press or (Stitch length keys) until the language is displayed. is displayed.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Winding/Installing the Bobbin This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread. Bobbin precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin. CAUTION β Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ a Turn on the sewing machine. Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto f the spool pin. Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom. b Open the top cover. β’ If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ While holding the thread near the spool with h your right hand, as shown, pull the thread with Memo z When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool. your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ While holding the thread with your left hand, k wind the thread that was pulled out clockwise Slide the sewing speed controller to the right m to increase the bobbin winding speed and slide to left to decrease. around the bobbin five or six times with your right hand. 1 1 a Sewing speed controller n Note z Make sure that the thread between the spool and the bobbin is pulled tight.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ q Remove the bobbin from the shaft. Press (βNeedle Positionβ button) once or a twice to raise the needle, and then raise the presser foot lever. b Turn off the sewing machine. c Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right. 1 2 Memo z When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction. a Bobbin cover b Latch X The bobbin cover opens.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Memo Note z The order that the bobbin thread should be passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated. The marks around the bobbin case differ depending on the model. z Make sure that the thread is correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted correctly, reinsert the thread.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Upper Threading In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described. CAUTION β When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled and the needle may bend or break. Memo z The order that the machine should be threaded is indicated by a solid line on the sewing machine.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Raise the presser foot lever to raise the presser b foot. Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the f spool pin. 1 1 a a Spool pin b Spool cap a Presser foot lever g Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin. Note z If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded. Press 2 horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ While using your right hand to lightly hold the k thread passed under the thread guide plate, CAUTION β If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin and the needle may break. β Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the b left side of the machine. Threading the needle This section describes how to thread the needle. 1 1 Memo z The needle threader can be used with sewing machine needles 75/11 through 100/16. z The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle. z If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to βThreading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)β (page 33).
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Lower the needle threader lever on the left d side of the machine until it clicks, and then slowly return the lever to its original position. Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the e thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine. 1 1 a 5 cm (2 inches) a Needle threader lever X The thread is passed through the eye of the needle.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) When using specialty thread, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, a wing needle or a twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader, thread the needle as described below. Thread the machine to the needle bar thread a guide. Using the twin needle With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin d winder shaft. Thread the upper thread for the right side in g the same way that the upper thread for the left Insert the extra spool pin so that it is perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft. side was threaded. 1 1 a Bobbin winder shaft a Thread guide cover Swing down the spool pin so that it is β’ For details, refer to step i through k of βThreading the upper threadβ (page 28).
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ k Select a stitch. β’ For details on selecting a stitch, refer to βSelecting stitchingβ (page 72). β’ For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to βStitch Settingsβ (page 138). m Start sewing. β’ For details on starting to sew, refer to βStarting to sewβ (page 52). X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of the bobbin Pulling up the bobbin thread e thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine. When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below. a Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case. β’ Refer to steps a through e of βInstalling the bobbinβ (page 26). Pass the bobbin thread through the slot. b Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Replacing the Needle This section provides information on sewing machine needles. 1 Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. CAUTION β Only use home sewing machine needles.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Needle types and their uses The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Checking the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even. Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ d Lower the presser foot lever. While holding the needle with your left hand, g use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw. Install the twin needle in the same way. 1 a Presser foot lever e use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp Hold the needle with your left hand, and then screw toward you (counterclockwise) to remove the needle.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Replacing the Presser Foot The presser foot presses down on the fabric. Presser foot precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet. CAUTION β Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break. β Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Press the black button at the back of the d presser foot holder. Raise the presser foot lever to check that the g presser foot is securely attached. a b Note a Black button b Presser foot holder X The presser foot holder releases the presser foot. e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the Place a different presser foot below the holder notch in the holder.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot The presser foot pressure (the amount of pressure applied to the fabric by the presser foot) can be adjusted. a Lower the presser foot lever. Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Using the walking foot CAUTION With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting. Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot d holder screw, and then remove the walking foot. 1 a a Presser foot holder screw e Attach the presser foot holder. β’ For details, refer to βRemoving the presser foot holderβ (page 43). Memo z Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used with the walking foot. For details on the stitches, refer to βStitch Settingsβ (page 138).
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment. Stitching cylindrical pieces Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs. a Sewing large pieces of fabric The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier. Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg to d adjust their height so the wide table will be Install the flat bed attachment back in its f original position. level with the sewing machine bed. Memo z With the legs folded up, the wide table can be stored attached to the hard case. CAUTION β Do not move the sewing machine while the wide table is attached, otherwise damage or injuries may occur. When you are finished using the wide table, e remove it.
GETTING READY βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ 48
2 SEWING BASICS The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter. Sewing.....................................................................................................................50 General sewing procedure .................................................................................50 Positioning the fabric .........................................................................................51 Starting to sew ...........................................................
SEWING BASICS βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Sewing Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions. CAUTION β While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur. β Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Positioning the fabric Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. a Turn on the sewing machine. 2 The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected. Press e Lower the presser foot lever. (βNeedle Positionβ button) once or b twice to raise the needle. 1 a Presser foot lever 1 X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.
SEWING BASICS βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ b Starting to sew Press (βStart/Stopβ button) once. Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the sewing speed controller or the foot controller. 1 a βStart/Stopβ button Note X The machine starts sewing. Important: z When the foot controller is plugged in, (βStart/Stopβ button) cannot be used to start sewing.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on b the side of the sewing machine. Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly e press down on the foot controller. Pressing down on the foot controller increases the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the foot controller decreases the sewing speed. 1 Slower Faster β’ Slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly.
SEWING BASICS βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press Securing the stitching c (βReverse/Reinforcement Stitchβ button). Keep (βReverse/Reinforcement Stitchβ button) held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching. When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn, (βReverse/Reinforcement Stitchβ button). g release h Cutting the thread X The machine stops sewing. When you have finished sewing, cut the threads. The threads can be cut in either of two ways. Press β Using (βStart/Stopβ button), or press down on the foot controller. At this time, if (βStart/Stopβ button) is held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
SEWING BASICS βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ β Using the manual thread cutter When sewing with nylon or metallic threads, or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut the threads. When you wish to finish the stitching and the a sewing machine is stopped, press (βNeedle Positionβ button) once to raise the needle. 1 a βNeedle Positionβ button X The needle is raised. b Raise the presser foot lever.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Adjusting the Thread Tension The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal. β Upper thread is too loose If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose. Thread tension You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used.
SEWING BASICS βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Changing the tension of the upper thread c To increase the thread tension, press (Thread tension key). To decrease the thread tension, press (Thread tension key). The tension of the upper thread can be changed using thread tension keys. a Turn on the sewing machine. X The tension of the upper thread is changed. X The LCD comes on. b Select a stitch. X A screen containing settings for the selected stitch appears.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within which the width and length can be set, refer to βStitch Settingsβ (page 138). Adjusting the stitch width The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to make the stitch wider or narrower.
SEWING BASICS βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Adjusting the stitch length The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch longer or shorter. a c To make the stitch length shorter, press (Stitch length key). To make the stitch length longer, press (Stitch length key). Turn on the sewing machine. X The stitch length is changed. X The LCD comes on. b Select a stitch. X A screen containing settings for the selected stitch appears.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Useful Functions Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below. Changing the needle stop position When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing is stopped. However, the machine can be set to instead leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped. a Turn on the sewing machine.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ SEWING BASICS c Press (Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key). This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn. e After reaching the end of the stitching, press (βReverse/Reinforcement Stitchβ button) once.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Automatically cutting the thread Position the fabric under the presser foot, and (βStart/Stopβ button) once. d then press The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called βprogrammed thread-cuttingβ. If programmed threadcutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set. This setting is convenient if a stitch for sewing buttonholes or bar tacks is selected.
SEWING BASICS βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ b Saving stitch settings Adjusted thread tension and stitch width and length settings can be saved so that they will be specified each time the stitch is selected. The various settings can be saved for each utility stitch. a (Manual memory key). X βSaving...β appears while the settings for the thread tension, stitch width and stitch length are being saved.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ β Using the knee lifter Hands-free raising and lowering of the presser foot Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric. a Stop the sewing machine. β’ Do not use the knee lifter while the sewing machine is operating. With your knee, press the knee lifter to the b right. Keep the knee lifter pressed to the right.
SEWING BASICS βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Useful Sewing Tips Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. Trial sewing After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Release the presser foot locking pin (black d button). Sewing thick fabrics β If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position. X The presser foot remains level, allowing the fabric to be fed. 2 X After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will return to its original angle.
SEWING BASICS βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics When sewing the fabrics that may stick to the presser foot such as leathers or coated fabrics, change the presser foot to the non stick foot. β Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking in the needle plate.
3 UTILITY STITCHES The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter. Selecting Stitching ............................... 70 Selecting stitch types and patterns....... 70 Selecting stitching .......................... 72 Overcasting Stitches............................ 76 Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot βGβ ............. 76 Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot βJβ ...................... 77 Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter ...............
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Selecting Stitching You can select any of the various types of stitching available. Β Preset utility stitch Selecting stitch types and patterns A stitch can be selected from the following types available. Stitch patterns can be selected through either direct select (by pressing the key for a specific stitch) or number selection (by entering the number for the stitch pattern).
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Β Β Decorative stitches Character stitches There are two decorative stitch modes: decorative There are three character stitch modes: Gothic stitch 1 mode font mode and decorative stitch 2 mode . If , Script font mode outline style mode (Decorative stitch key) is pressed once, decorative stitch 1 mode is selected. If If and . (Character stitch key) is pressed once, Gothic font mode is selected.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ After selecting the stitch mode, select the Selecting stitching Using the operation panel keys, select the desired stitch. Ten of the most often used utility stitches can quickly be selected with the numeric keys. Right after turning the power on, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected. The machine can also be set to select the straight stitch (center needle position). For details, refer to βChanging the settingsβ (page 19).
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Press the key assigned with the stitch to select Character stitches b the stitch. : Gothic font β’ Continue with step f (on page 74). 97 letter, symbol and numbers are available. β With number selection When There are three modes of stitches that can be selected by number: utility stitch mode decorative stitch mode mode , : Script font and character stitch 97 letter, symbol and numbers are . available.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Use the numeric keys to type in the two-digit b number for the desired stitch. For stitches 01 through 09, the stitch can also β To select a different stitch Check the icon in the lower-left corner of the screen for the current mode. be selected by using the numeric keys to type in a one-digit number, then pressing (OK key). X After the entered number appears in the center of the screen, the stitch is selected.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ β’ To erase the stitch and select a different one, press (OK key), and then change the stitch mode. β’ To stop the current stitch from being erased, press (Cancel/clear key) to return to the previous screen. Memo z After changing stitch settings such as the stitch length and width or after combining patterns, the stitch pattern can be saved with its current settings. For details, refer to βSaving patternsβ (page 130).
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Overcasting Stitches Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent fabric from fraying. Fifteen stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used. Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot βGβ Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot βGβ.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot βJβ Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot βJβ.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter. Pattern Stitch Name Overcasting stitch Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 63 Sewing straight stitches while cutting the fabric 0.0 (0) 0.0β2.5 (0β3/32) 2.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Raise the presser foot lever to check that the f side cutter is securely attached. Position the fabric in the side cutter. j The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter. Pass the upper thread under the side cutter, g and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine. a a Guide plate β’ If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Basic Stitching Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching. Stitch Name Basting stitch Pattern Numeric Key 06 β 01 Straight stitch (left needle position) Straight stitch (center needle position) Triple stretch stitch 02 β 03 04 Application Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Temporarily securing 0.0 (0) 0.0β7.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Basic stitching a Baste or pin together the fabric pieces. b Attach zigzag foot βJβ. β Changing the needle position The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position). 1 2 J β’ For details, refer to βReplacing the presser footβ (page 41). c Select a stitch. β’ For details, refer to βSelecting stitchingβ (page 72).
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Blind Hem Stitching Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching. Stitch Name Pattern Numeric Key 17 Blind hem stitch 18 β Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Application Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics 00 (0) 3β β 3β 2.0 (1/16) 1.0β3.5 (1/16β1/8) Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics 00 (0) 3β β 3β 2.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ β If the needle does not catch the hem fold The needle is too far to the right. Press (of the Stitch width keys) to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem. Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly f catches the fold of the hem.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Eleven stitches are available for sewing one-step buttonholes and one stitch for sewing on buttons. Stitch Name Pattern Numeric Key 48 49 50 52 53 54 55 56 57 Buttonsewing stitch 84 61 Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual β Horizontal buttonholes on thin and medium weight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0β5.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Buttonhole sewing The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below. 1 1 3 1 1 a Reinforcement stitching The names of parts of buttonhole foot βAβ, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below. Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position a and length of the buttonhole.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ β If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).) Position the fabric with the front end of the e buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Gently hold the end of the upper thread in g your left hand, and then start sewing. Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and k open the buttonhole. 1 X Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops. h Press (βThread Cutterβ button) once.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ β Changing the stitch width Adjust the stitch width. β b Attach buttonhole foot βAβ. c Select stitch 52 + β’ For details, refer to βReplacing the presser footβ (page 41). or 53 . Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the d gimp thread. Lower the presser foot lever and the e buttonhole lever, and then start sewing. When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp f thread to remove any slack.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as e the distance between the holes in the button. Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. f Place the button into button-sewing foot βMβ. Measure the distance between the holes in the a button to be attached.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Start sewing. h Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the speed will be slow). β Attaching a shank to a button To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely. Place the button into button-sewing foot βMβ, a and then pull the shank lever toward you.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Zipper Insertion A zipper can be sewn in place. Stitch Name Straight stitch (center needle position) Pattern Numeric Key Application Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and pintucks 03 Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 0.0β7.0 (0β1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2β5.0 (1/64β3/16) Presser Foot I There are many methods for inserting zippers.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin e of zipper foot βIβ. g Topstitch around the zipper. 1 1 I 3 2 2 4 a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point β’ For details, refer to βReplacing the presser footβ (page 41). f Select stitch 03 . β’ For details, refer to βSelecting stitchingβ (page 72).
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Press open the seam allowance from the Inserting a side zipper c wrong side of the fabric. Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper application for side openings and back openings. 1 2 1 a Wrong side of fabric Press the seam allowance so that the right side d (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch).
UTILITY STITCHES g ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Select stitch 03 . Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then j baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric. β’ For details, refer to βSelecting stitchingβ (page 72). CAUTION β When using zipper foot βIβ, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the m end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever, and then open the zipper and continue sewing. n Remove the basting stitching.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Zipper/piping Insertion A zipper and piping can be sewn in place. Stitch Name Straight stitch (left needle position) Pattern Numeric Key Application Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and piping 01 Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 0.0 (0) 0.0β7.0 (0β1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2β5.0 (1/64β3/16) Presser Foot There are many methods for inserting zippers and pipings.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Securely tighten the positioning screw with a g screwdriver. Inserting a piping Place the piping between two fabric pieces a turned inside out, as shown below. 1 1 2 3 a Positioning screw h a Fabric b Piping c Fabric Topstitch around the zipper. Refer to the steps of attaching the adjustable 1 3 2 b zipper/piping foot (page 96). c Sew along the piping. d After sewing, turn fabric pieces.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached. Stitch Name Stretch stitch Pattern Numeric Key 05 2-point zigzag stitch 09 3-point zigzag stitch 10 Elasticattaching stitch Application Stretch fabrics β Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 1.0 (1/16) 1.0β3.0 (1/16β1/8) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0β4.0 (1/16β3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5β7.0 (1/16β1/4) 1.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ b Attach zigzag foot βJβ. J β’ For details, refer to βReplacing the presser footβ (page 41). c Select a stitch. β’ For details, refer to βSelecting stitchingβ (page 72). Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while d stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ AppliquΓ©, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching The stitches that can be used for sewing appliquΓ©s, patchwork and quilts are described below. Stitch Name Pattern Numeric Key AppliquΓ© stitch 25 21 Auto Manual Attaching appliquΓ©s (center baseline/ reverse stitching) 3.5 (1/8) 0.0β7.0 (0β1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0β4.0 (0β3/16) β AppliquΓ© quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching 3.5 (1/8) 0.0β7.0 (0β1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0β4.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ d AppliquΓ© stitching Attach the open toe foot. For best results, use the included open toe foot. a allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and Cut out the appliquΓ©, leaving a seam β’ For details, refer to βReplacing the presser footβ (page 41). 3/16 inch). 1 e Select a stitch. β’ For details, refer to βSelecting stitchingβ (page 72).
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching a place it over the lower piece. Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and b pattern spans over both pieces. Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the Piecing Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called βpiecingβ. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ β For a seam allowance on the left side Align the left side of the presser foot with the Align the mark at the upper edge of the 1/4 d inch quilting foot with the upper edge of the fabric. Align the right edge of the fabric with the right edge of the narrow part of the 1/4 inch quilting foot. edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch 22 . 1 1 2 a Mark on 1/4 inch quilting foot b Beginning of stitching a 6.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Quilting β Using the quilting guide Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced. Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called βquiltingβ. Quilts can easily be sewn using the walking foot and the quilting guide. Note z Thread the needle manually when using the walking foot, or only attach the walking foot after threading the needle using the needle threader.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Free-motion quilting CAUTION With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. β Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller e Press or (Stitch width keys) to select . To return to width keys). , press or (Stitch A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the stitch width of a satin stitch. If the sewing machine is set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly and easily be adjusted.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Memo z When the foot controller is plugged in, (βStart/Stopβ button) cannot be used to start sewing. i width control setting back to OFF. When you are finished sewing, set the stitch Memo z Although the stitching result differs depending on the type of fabric being sewn and the thickness of the thread being used, for best results, adjust the stitch length to between 0.3 and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32 inch).
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Reinforcement Stitching Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners. Stitch Name Pattern Numeric Key Triple stretch stitch 04 Bar tack stitch 60 Reinforcing the seams of sleeves and inseams 58 Darning stitch Application 59 Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 0.0 (0) 0.0β7.0 (0β1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.5β4.0 (1/16β3/16) β Reinforcing the ends 2.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ b Attach buttonhole foot βAβ. c Select stitch 60 Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as β’ For details, refer to βReplacing the presser footβ (page 41). e possible. . β’ For details, refer to βSelecting stitchingβ (page 72). Position the fabric so that the opening of the d pocket faces toward you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Darning Fabric that has been torn can be darned. Darning is sewn as shown below. 1 1 a Reinforcement stitching Determine the desired length of the darning. a Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot βAβ to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as e possible. a a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. 1 3 2 a Buttonhole lever b Bracket Gently hold the end of the upper thread in f your left hand, and then start sewing. X Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops. Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever, g and then remove the fabric.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Eyelet Stitching Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4, 15/64 and 3/16 inch). Pattern Stitch Name Eyelet stitch a Application 62 Sewing eyelets, for example, on belts Attach monogramming foot βNβ. Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 7.0 (1/4) 7.0, 6.0 or 5.0 (1/4, 15/64 or 3/16) β β e Presser Foot N Start sewing.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Horizontal Stitching Horizontal stitching is used to attach appliquΓ©s to fabric that cannot be moved around, such as cylindrical pieces. Straight stitches and zigzag stitches that sew to either the left or right are available.
UTILITY STITCHES Press h button). ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ (βReverse/Reinforcement Stitchβ Press and hold the (βReverse/ Reinforcement Stitchβ) button pressed until the stitching reaches the upper-left corner. X The fabric is fed forward. i After you have sewn to the corner, stop the j Start sewing. sewing machine, and then select stitch 69 . X The fabric is fed to the left. k After you have sewn to the corner, stop the sewing machine, and then select stitch 01 again.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Decorative Stitching Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Pattern Stitch Name Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual 6.0 (15/64) 1.5β7.0 (1/16β1/4) 1.6 1.0β4.0 (1/16) (1/16β3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5β7.0 (1/16β1/4) 1.6 1.0β4.0 (1/16) (1/16β3/16) 35 4.0 (3/16) 0.0β7.0 (0β1/4) 3.0 (1/8) Rick-rack stitch 36 4.0 (3/16) 0.0β7.0 (0β1/4) 2.5 1.0β4.0 (3/32) (1/16β3/16) Decorative stitch 37 5.5 (7/32) 0.0β7.0 (0β1/4) 1.6 1.0β4.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Scallop stitching The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called βscallopingβ. It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs. a Attach monogramming foot βNβ. Smocking The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called βsmockingβ. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric. a Attach zigzag foot βJβ.
UTILITY STITCHES e ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Select stitch 31 , 32 or 33 . β’ For details, refer to βSelecting stitchingβ (page 72). f Stitch between the straight stitches. c Select stitch 20 , and then increase the thread tension. β’ For details, refer to βSelecting stitchingβ (page 72). d slightly off the edge of the fabric. Sew while making sure that the needle drops 1 g Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Joining Heirloom stitching Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt. a Attach zigzag foot βJβ. When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics.
UTILITY STITCHES d ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Start sewing. c Select stitch 39 . β’ For details, refer to βSelecting stitchingβ (page 72). CAUTION β Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may bend or break. β After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ g Press or (Stitch width keys) to select β Drawnwork (Example 2) . To return to width keys). , press or (Stitch Pull out several threads from two sections of a the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of about 4 mm (3/16 inch). X The pattern is flipped. 3 Press h key). (OK key) or (Cancel/clear 1 X The initial stitch screen appears again. a 4 mm (3/16 inch) b Attach monogramming foot βNβ.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns Satin stitches, cross-stitches and decorative satin stitches can be sewn. All are sewn with monogramming foot βNβ. Sewing beautiful patterns c Start sewing. In order to sew the patterns correctly, the following must be considered.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ c Combining patterns Repeat steps b . Multiple patterns can be combined and sewn together. After all of the desired patterns are selected, d start sewing. Decorative stitches and character stitches (stitches selected with and ) can be combined. 1 However, utility stitches (stitches selected with and a ) cannot be combined. Select the first pattern. a Sewing direction X The first pattern is selected and appears in the LCD.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Press To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, follow the procedure described below. a (OK key) or e key). Repeat sewing patterns (Cancel/clear X The initial stitch screen appears again, and the machine is set to repeatedly sew the selected pattern. Select the pattern. 1 2 β’ For details, refer to βCombining patternsβ (page 123). Press b panel. (Settings key) in the operation X The settings screen appears.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ b Press or (Stitch length keys) until Changing the pattern size is displayed. The size of decorative stitches and decorative satin stitches ( selected with stitches in the Gothic font ( and outline style ( ) and character selected with selected with ) ) can be switched between large and small. However, the size X The screen for checking the pattern appears. of other patterns cannot be changed.
UTILITY STITCHES d Press or ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ (Stitch width keys) until the Changing the stitch density desired size is selected. Select for the small size or select for the large size. If a decorative satin stitch has been selected, the stitch density can be changed. a Select a decorative satin stitch (No. 60β69 of , selected with b panel. Press ). (Settings key) in the operation X The settings screen appears. X The pattern size is changed. e key).
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ d Press or (Stitch width keys) until the c desired density is selected. Select for sparse stitching or select Press or (Stitch length keys) until is displayed. for compact stitching. X The screen for changing the length of a satin stitch appears. 3 Press e key). (OK key) or (Cancel/clear X The initial stitch screen appears again, and the stitching density is changed. Press or (Stitch width keys) until the d desired ratio is selected.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ c Shifting patterns Using the numeric keys, type in "41" to select (No. 41 of Satin stitches (No. 32β47 of , selected with ) again. , selected with ) can be shifted to the left or right by half the width of the pattern, allowing you to create a stepshaped pattern. This is called a βstep patternβ. Select (No.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Press e key). Mirror imaging the pattern Select a stitch. b Press (Cancel/clear X The initial stitch screen appears again. The pattern can be mirror imaged along a vertical axis. a (OK key) or 1 2 (Settings key) in the operation panel. X The settings screen appears. a Normal b Mirror-imaged Press z Some of the utility stitches, most of the decorative stitches, and all of the character stitches can be mirror imaged.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Check the contents, and then press Saving patterns d key). (OK The contents saved in the selected pocket are overwritten. Combined patterns can be saved for later use. Since saved patterns are not lost after the sewing machine is turned off, they can be retrieved at any time. This is convenient for patterns, such as names, that will be used often. Utility stitches can also be saved. Up to ten patterns can be saved. X βSaving...
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Press the numeric key (0 through 9) for the b pocket where the pattern is saved. c Start sewing. X The saved contents of the pocket for the selected number are retrieved. X The pattern for making the adjustment is sewn. β’ If nothing was saved in the selected pocket, a beep is sounded, and the screen displayed before the numeric key was pressed appears again. X The sewing machine stops after it has finished sewing the pattern.
UTILITY STITCHES f Press or ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ (Stitch length keys) until β Vertical pattern adjustment or is displayed. To adjust the vertical position, select adjust the horizontal position, select . To . Press (Stitch width key) to increase the adjustment setting. X The screen for adjusting the pattern appears. β Vertical pattern adjustment Press (Stitch width key) to decrease the adjustment setting.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Designing a Pattern With the My Custom Stitch function, you can sew stitch patterns that you design yourself. Mark the points in the pattern that are Drawing a sketch of the pattern c positioned at intersections in the grid, and then link those points with a continuous straight line. Prepare a grid sheet set. Draw a sketch of the pattern on the grid sheet a set. 3 d Determine the sewing order.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Check the grid sheet set, and specify the d coordinates of the first point. Entering the pattern data Press a and (Stitch width keys) to select the horizontal coordinate and press Follow the pattern drawn on the grid sheet and program the pattern into the sewing machine. and (Stitch length keys) to select the vertical coordinate, and then press Attach monogramming foot βNβ. (OK key).
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ g Select , and then press (OK key). Specify the various stitching settings, such as j reverse/reinforcement stitching, in the same way as with other stitches. β’ If you make a mistake while specifying a point, press (Cancel/clear key) so that the point changes from to β’ With this screen displayed, pressing , and (Cancel/clear key) displays the screen where then move (edit) the position of the point.
UTILITY STITCHES ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Examples of designs Enter each of the points indicated in the table to sew the sample stitch.
4 APPENDIX The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter. Stitch Settings........................................................................................................138 Utility stitches ..................................................................................................138 Other stitches...................................................................................................144 Care and Maintenance .................................
APPENDIX βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Stitch Settings Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table. Left Center Triple stretch stitch Stretch stitch Right Zigzag stitch Center Basting stitch 2-point zigzag stitch 3-point zigzag stitch 138 Programmed Thread-Cutting Walking Foot Reverse Reverse + thread-cutting No J Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. 0.0 (0) 0.0β7.
11 Overcasting stitch Straight stitch that looks hand-sewn (for quilting) Preventing fraying in G thick fabrics and fabrics that fray easily Quilting stitch (for stippling) Satin scallop stitch Walking Foot 3.5β5.0 (1/8β3/16) 2.5 1.0β4.0 Reinforcement + No Reinforcement No (3/32) (1/16β3/16) thread-cutting 5.0 (3/16) 0.0β7.0 (0β1/4) 2.5 0.5β4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/32β3/16) (J) thread-cutting J Overcasting on thick or stretch fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 0.0β7.0 (0β1/4) 2.5 0.
J Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching 4.0 (3/16) 0.0β7.0 (0β1/4) 1.2 0.2β4.0 Yes Reinforcement + Reinforcement No (1/16) (1/64β3/16) (J) thread-cutting J Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcasting on both pieces of fabric, such as with tricot 5.0 (3/16) 2.5β7.0 (3/32β1/4) 2.5 1.0β4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/16β3/16) (J) thread-cutting J Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 0.0β7.0 (0β1/4) 1.2 0.2β4.
39 Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 1.5β7.0 (1/16β1/4) Auto Manual Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Programmed Thread-Cutting Walking Foot Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Application Lace sewing, decorative N hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. 40 2.5 1.6β4.0 Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/16β3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting N Decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. 6.0 1.5β7.0 (15/64) (1/16β1/4) 3.0 (1/8) 1.5β4.
49 Auto Manual Horizontal buttonholes A on thin and medium weight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0β5.0 (1/8β3/16) 0.4 0.2β1.0 (1/64) (1/64β1/16) No Automatic reinforcement Thread-cutting No Horizontal buttonholes A on areas that are subject to strain 5.0 (3/16) 3.0β5.0 (1/8β3/16) 0.4 0.2β1.0 (1/64) (1/64β1/16) No Automatic reinforcement Thread-cutting No Horizontal buttonholes on thick fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0β5.0 (1/8β3/16) 0.4 0.2β1.
63 70 Horizontal zigzag stitch 71 Walking Foot Programmed Thread-Cutting Auto Manual Auto 2.5 0.2β5.0 Reinforcement + No Reinforcement No (3/32) (1/64β3/16) thread-cutting 0.0β2.5 (0β3/32) S Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting the fabric 3.5 (1/8) 3.5β5.0 (1/8β3/16) 1.4 (1/16) S Overcasting on thin and medium weight fabrics while cutting the fabric 3.5 (1/8) 3.5β5.0 (1/8β3/16) 2.0 1.0β4.
A PPEN D IX βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Decorative stitches 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29* 30* 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 42 43 44 45 46 47 Left/Right Flipping 02 Adjustable Pattern Length/width 01 Adjustable Stitching Density Stitch Type Pattern Size Pattern Twin Needle Presser Foot Other stitches Large: No Small: Yes (*Not possible) Yes N No Large, Small No (*Large) N Yes (J)
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 11 12 13 16 17 18* 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27* 28 08 Utility decorative stitches 09 14 15 Yes (*Not J** possible) (J) Left/Right Flipping Adjustable Pattern Length/width Adjustable Stitching Density Stitch Type Pattern Size Pattern Twin Needle Presser Foot ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Yes 29 10 19* 30* 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 No No Yes G** No No R** No No N No (*Not impossible) Yes 38 39 ** Use monogramming foot
03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 Character stitches (Gothic font) 51 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 N Large, No Small Memo z To select 146 (Gothic font), press (Character stitch key) once.
04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 Character stitches (Script font) 51 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 N No Large Left/Right Flipping 03 Adjustable Pattern Length/width 02 Adjustable Stitching Density
03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 N No Large, Small Memo z To select 148 (Outline style), press (Character stitch key) three times.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Care and Maintenance Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. Remove the needle plate cover. Restrictions on oiling d The needle plate cover is removed differently depending on the model. In order to prevent damaging this machine, it must not be oiled by the user. This machine was manufactured with the necessary amount of oil applied to ensure correct operation, making periodic oiling unnecessary.
APPENDIX βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Remove the bobbin case. e Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out. Install the needle plate cover. h The needle plate cover is installed differently depending on the model. β If there is a screw in the needle plate cover Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into a the needle plate, and then slide the cover back on.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Troubleshooting If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at β http://solutions.brother.com β . If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
APPENDIX βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ While holding the bobbin in place with your d finger, pass the thread through the slit in the needle plate. β’ Hold down the bobbin with your right hand, and then pull the end of the thread around the tab with your left hand. Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric β Symptom β’ The thread becomes tangled on the lower side of the fabric. a Tab b Hold down the bobbin with your right hand.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Raise the presser foot using the presser foot d lever. Pass the thread under the thread guide plate, g and then pull it up. 1 a Presser foot lever β’ If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded correctly. Press (βNeedle Positionβ button) once or e twice to raise the needle.
APPENDIX βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Incorrect thread tension β Symptoms β’ Symptom 1: The lower thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric. β’ Symptom 2: The upper thread appears as a straight line on the upper side of the fabric. β’ Symptom 3: The upper thread is visible from the lower side of the fabric. β’ Symptom 4: The lower thread appears as a straight line on the lower side of the fabric. β’ Symptom 5: The stitching on the lower side of the fabric is loose or has slack.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Cut out the tangled threads, and then remove Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed If the fabric is caught in the sewing machine and cannot be removed, the thread may have become tangled under the needle plate. Follow the procedure described below to remove the fabric from the machine.
APPENDIX βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Use the enclosed disc-shaped screwdriver to j loosen the two screws on the needle plate. Turn the handwheel to check that the feed dogs move smoothly and do not contact the edges of the slots in the needle plate. Note z Be careful not to drop the removed screws in the machine. Slightly lift up the needle plate, cut any tangled k threads, and then remove the needle plate. Remove the fabric and threads from the needle plate.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ CAUTION β Never use a bobbin case that is scratched, otherwise the upper thread may become tangled, the needle may break or sewing performance may suffer. For a new bobbin case (part code: XC3153-321), contact your nearest authorized service center. β Make sure that you fit the bobbin case properly, otherwise the needle may break. Attach the needle plate cover according to h in βCleaning the raceβ (page 150). q steps r install it.
APPENDIX g βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Correctly thread the machine. β’ For details on threading the machine, refer to βUpper Threadingβ (page 28). Note z The thread may have become tangled as a result of incorrect upper threading. Make sure that the machine is correctly threaded. h Perform trial sewing with normal fabric. CAUTION β Do not remove the bobbin winder seat even if the thread become tangled under the bobbin winder seat. It may result in injuries.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and c then remove the bobbin from the shaft. Hold the thread end with your left hand, and d wind off the thread clockwise near the bobbin with your right hand as shown below. 4 e Wind the bobbin again. Note z Make sure that the thread passes under the pretension disk of the bobbin-winding thread guide correctly (page 24).
APPENDIX βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ List of symptoms Symptom The sewing machine does not operate. The needle breaks. Probable Cause Remedy The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 17 The βStart/Stopβ button was not pressed. Press the βStart/Stopβ button. page 52 The presser foot lever is raised. Lower the presser foot lever. β The βStart/Stopβ button was pressed, even though the foot controller is connected.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Symptom The upper thread breaks. Probable Cause Remedy Reference The upper thread was not threaded correctly (for example, the spool is not installed correctly, the spool cap is too big for the spool being used, or the thread has come out of the needle bar thread guide). Correct the upper threading. page 28 There are knots or tangles in the thread. Remove any knots or tangles. β The selected needle is not appropriate for the thread being used.
APPENDIX βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Symptom The thread tension is incorrect. The fabric is wrinkled. Stitches are skipped. 162 Probable Cause Remedy Reference The upper thread was not threaded correctly. Correct the upper threading. page 28 The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 26 The combination of fabric, thread and needle is not correct. Select a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn.
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Symptom A high-pitched noise is made while sewing. The needle threader cannot be used. The stitch is not sewn correctly. The fabric does not feed. Nothing appears in the LCD. Probable Cause Remedy Reference Dust has accumulated in the feed dogs or in the bobbin case. Clean the race. page 149 The upper thread was not threaded correctly. Correct the upper threading. page 28 The bobbin case is scratched, or has a burr on it.
APPENDIX βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Symptom While winding the bobbin, the bobbin thread was wound below the bobbin winder seat. Bobbin thread does not wind neatly on the bobbin. Probable Cause Remedy Reference You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. After removing the thread wound below the bobbin winder seat, wind the bobbin correctly. page 158 The thread is not passed through the bobbin-winding thread guide correctly.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Error messages If (βStart/Stopβ button) is pressed before the sewing machine is correctly set up or if an operation is performed incorrectly, an error message appears in the LCD. Follow the instructions that appear. The message will disappear if (OK key) or Error Message (Cancel/clear key) is pressed while the message is displayed. Probable Cause The selected setting cannot be changed with the selected pattern.
APPENDIX βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Nothing appears in the LCD Cancelling the operation beep If nothing appears in the LCD when the sewing machine is turned on, the brightness of the LCD is either too light or too dark. If this is the case, perform the following operation. When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to beep each time an operation panel key is pressed. This setting can be changed so that the machine does not beep. a Turn off the sewing machine.
ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ d Press or (Stitch width keys) to select . To return to keys). , press or (Stitch width X The machine is now set so that it will not beep. Press e key). (Cancel/clear key) or (OK 4 X The initial stitch screen appears again.
APPENDIX βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ Index Numerics 1/4 inch quilting foot ............................................. 9, 103 1/4 inch quilting foot with guide .....................................9 2-point zigzag stitch ......................................................77 3-point zigzag stitch ......................................................77 A accessories ......................................................................8 accessory bag ..............................
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ J P joining ........................................................................119 joining stitch ...............................................................100 patchwork stitching .....................................................102 pattern length ..............................................................127 pattern size .................................................................125 patterns ....................................
APPENDIX ββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ start/stop button ..................................................... 12, 52 starting to sew ...............................................................52 step pattern .................................................................128 stitch density ...............................................................126 stitch guide foot ....................................................... 9, 68 stitch length ...................................
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